Life & Style

It isn’t every day someone casually mentions they are heading back to a cabin near the North Pole. Yet, that is exactly what 57-year-old Hilde Fålun Strøm, a citizen scientist based in Longyearbyen, the world’s northernmost town, told me when we met last year in the frozen archipelago of Svalbard.

Norwegian by nationality, Strøm grew up outside Oslo in a family that spent long days outdoors. Her passion for the Arctic began in childhood and deepened after she moved to Svalbard in 1995, where she lives with her husband Steinar, who works for Statsbygg and oversees properties owned by the Longyearbyen government. The two have lovely grandchildren.

An explorer, polar ambassador and climate advocate, Strøm runs Svalbard Expeditions and is the co-founder, with Sunniva Sorby, of Hearts in the Ice, a pioneering citizen-science initiative. She advocates for Arctic protection through global platforms such as COP26 and contributes to projects like Arctic Call, an Inuit-led summit integrating traditional knowledge with modern climate monitoring. This year, it is slated for September 11-15.

When I visited the region, it was early spring, and Svalbard was buried under snow. The sun didn’t set at all, yet no trees grew. The starkness felt almost extraterrestrial, and yet inviting. No wonder it held Strøm so firmly.

Reindeers of Longyearbyen.
| Photo Credit:
Courtesy Hilde Fålun Strøm

“When I return from the cabin,” she told me, “it is never with stories of solitude or survival. It is always science, encounters with polar bears, and a kind of happiness I cannot quite describe.” Bamsebu, the cabin, is a 20 sq.m structure built in 1930 for summer beluga hunting. There is no insulation, electricity or plumbing. “No heating either, unless you count the wood stove,” she said. “I have been collecting driftwood for years.”

Absolute isolation

Longyearbyen is a land of glaciers and fjords, midnight sun and unending polar night. For part of the year, daylight never ends; for months afterwards it never begins. The trapper cabin Strøm referenced intensifies all of this: glacier winds, the silence of the tundra, and the absence of human life except for polar bears and reindeer.

“It is 145 km as the crow flies,” Strøm explained. “But the route cuts across glaciers, mountain ridges and two fjords that must be frozen solid to cross. It is not a casual commute.” She travelled by snowmobile, towing a sledge loaded with 400 kg of food, fuel, equipment, and sometimes her husky. The journey could turn dangerous quickly.

There was the time when a storm she likened to a hurricane ripped the windshield off her snowmobile. “It flew off and landed between two ice blocks by the open sea,” she said. “I just leapt off and grabbed it before it blew into the water.” When she reached the cabin, she often had to dig through drifts to reach the door.

These short trips were nothing compared with the 19 months she once spent at Bamsebu with Sorby as part of a citizen science expedition. It had long been Strøm’s dream to live as close to the North Pole as possible, but not alone. “And it was not going to be my husband,” she laughed. She met Sorby, a Canadian, at a trade fair in Alaska in 2019. Soon after, the two were packing supplies for a winter of isolation in the frozen Arctic.

Hilde Fålun Strøm’s husky Ettra by the shore of Van Keulen Fjord (Van Keulenfjorden) in the remote Arctic region of Svalbard.
| Photo Credit:
Courtesy Hilde Fålun Strøm

Their plan was to stay nine months. COVID-19 stretched the expedition to nearly two years. “We got a satellite message with a single word: epidemic,” Strøm said. “We did not have radio or TV. By the time we understood the enormity of it, no ships were coming. We were not exactly stranded, but we could not leave either.”

Even if they could have, they did not want to. “We had too much equipment, and there were polar bears in the area. Abandoning food stores would have been irresponsible. And scientists could not access the field. We were the only ones reporting on long-term studies of polar bears and the tundra.” Despite limited satellite bandwidth, their research reached far. “We spoke to 104,000 children,” Strøm said.

Northern lights.
| Photo Credit:
Courtesy Hilde Fålun Strøm

Wild encounters

Polar bears, she explained, struggle to survive without sea ice from which to hunt seals. They are among the species most vulnerable to climate change. “The Arctic is twice as vulnerable as the rest of the world to climate change. We wanted students to understand how melting glaciers here could reshape the entire planet.”

Strøm still marvels that she saw 104 different polar bears. One night, a bear slammed into the cabin wall and climbed onto the roof. “I grabbed my revolver, flare gun and rubber bullets and stepped outside. He was 30 m away. We locked eyes. Then he walked off.”

Sunniva Sorby and Strøm with her husky.
| Photo Credit:
Courtesy Hilde Fålun Strøm

Her days began at 7 am. She lit the stove, chopped ice blocks to melt and boiled water. Later in the year, the women melted snow or used a nearby stream. Meals were simple: oatmeal or granola for breakfast, reindeer or Arctic char for dinner. “We even had a tiny solar- and wind-powered freezer.”

Strøm walked her dog Ettra daily, even in storms and months of darkness, with lights on the dog’s collar and heat-sensing binoculars to spot danger. The women exercised each day, washed their hair every two weeks using melted snow, washed clothes “in the same bucket”, and dried everything “by the stove”.

Still a woman

One day, the new priest of Svalbard arrived by helicopter, carrying “fruits, vegetables and my husband”, Strøm recalled. Even in extremity, the women preserved small rituals. “I wore a dress on Christmas and New Year’s Eve,” she said. “Curled my hair. Put on makeup. It reminded me of who I was, strong, yes, but still a woman.”

Strøm with her husky.
| Photo Credit:
Courtesy Hilde Fålun Strøm

For those brief two hours, she and her husband “stood outside, holding hands in the snow, singing about how lucky we were to be alive. It was one of the most powerful moments of overwintering”. Overwintering taught Strøm how little one needs in life to be happy. How everything is interconnected, that we are not only part of nature, we are nature. How important storytelling is. And how much fun it is to be part of the solution, not the problem.

What about a toilet, I asked. “For the first six months, we went to the shoreline, 40 m away. Not fun in a blizzard for a woman.” But “this was not a retreat. It was resistance, against disconnection from the planet, against apathy in the face of climate change”, she said.

Longyearbyen in springtime.
| Photo Credit:
Courtesy Hilde Fålun Strøm

Strøm’s work today reflects that conviction. Beyond the data and the ice, Strøm’s legacy lies in her mission to cultivate more heartbeats in leadership, a shift away from cold, clinical approaches to climate change and toward empathy, collaboration and human connection. By bringing together women leaders, including indigenous voices, she hopes to combine traditional knowledge with modern science to protect the environments they call home.

Hilde Fålun Strøm boating in Van Keulen Fjord (Van Keulenfjorden) in Svalbard.
| Photo Credit:
Courtesy Hilde Fålun Strøm

She believes female leadership is essential to addressing the climate crisis. “Women are caretakers. We are resilient. If we educate girls around the world, we do not just save the planet, we create a more peaceful, sustainable world,” she concluded.

The writer is a Mumbai based author and cultural commentator.

An hour before sunrise Vinu Peruvannan is finally set to play god.

Clad in crimson and black, donning heavy headgear speckled with wild geranium flowers, his torso covered in ashes, he holds up a mirror. His transition to a Kathivanoor Veeran Theyyam, a ferocious Thiyya warrior-turned-deity, is complete.

This sight alone makes my 488-kilometre journey from Thiruvananthapuram to Kannur, to experience my first-ever Theyyam at the Sree Kathivanoor Veeran temple, at Kavvayi, a 40-kilometre bus ride from the city centre, worth it. The final stretch of the Kaliyatta Maholsavam, a grand, multi-day, often triennial ritualistic Theyyam festival, is underway and fortunately I get there early enough to find myself a seat..

Helpers from the Thalikaran Tharavadu, considered the avakashikal (heirs) of the temple, fling palm-leaf torches outside the room. Amidst the beats of the chenda, the artiste moves backwards into the field in a menacing motion, preparing to perform his tale of valour, heartbreak and rebellion. The chronicles of Kathivanoor Veeran, sung by two helpers, which resounded across the arena all night, have now been replaced by quick beats of the drum.

Kathivanoor Veeran is one among the 456 theyyakolams (types of Theyyams) in Kerala, each entrenched in local myth. North Kerala’s Theyyams are between the 10th day of the Malayalam month of Thulam (mid-October) and Edavappathi (mid-June). “There are over 1,000 Theyyam festivals in a season across North Kerala,” says Santhosh Vengara, a tour guide specialised in Theyyam tours since 2010. They draw more and more tourists every year.

Each of these Theyyam performances involves rites that celebrate local lore – from fasting to the artiste returning to his “human self”, differing in preparation and presentation. Though the art form is rooted in the caste system, it brings in a temporary reversal of hierarchies, with performers from historically marginalised communities, including Vannan, Malayan, Velan, Mavilan, Panan, Pulaya, and Anjoottan, donning the roles of gods. Children belonging to Theyyam-performing families start preparing as early as seven years and transition into playing major Theyyams.

In pictures: Experiencing Theyyam in Kerala

Theyyam is performed only by men who morph into gods, adorning headdresses with colourful feathers and faces painted in vivid hues.

They dance around shrines to the loud beats of the Chenda and the sounds of the cymbals and bless devotees.

The sacred ritual also includes walking on fire.

Theyyam performances are an annual ritual. Performers in elaborate crimson gear blend movements of Kalaripayattu and dramatic rituals.

Theyyam being a ritualistic art form, travellers are expected to respect local customs and traditions, which now include restrictions on photography.

Each of these Theyyam performances involve rites that celebrate local lore. Though the art form is rooted in the caste system, it brings in a temporary reversal of hierarchies, with performers from historically marginalised communities.

The art form ties together the physical and metaphysical, uniting man and God, played out in an overwhelming multi-sensory experience.

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Vinu, a renowned artiste, is a member of the Vannan caste. He is known for his performances as Kathivanoor Veeran, Kandanar Kelan, Thottumkara Bhagavathy and Nedubaliyan Theyyams. As his transformation begins, he is surrounded by six artistes playing the chenda, and an entire village waiting for his warrior act.

Kathivanoor Veeran Theyyam
| Photo Credit:
Nainu Oommen

The story of Mandhappan

The Theyyam ritual begins with thottam, a sung ballad that narrates the life of rebellious Mandhappan, who becomes a skilled kalaripayattu warrior. He marries Chemmarathy, who curses him in anger before a battle. Though he wins the bout, he is ultimately betrayed and killed. Balan Peruvannan, a senior Theyyam artiste and member of the Thalikaran Tharavadu, tells me the story, adding that “His body is said to have been cut into 64 pieces; in grief, Chemmarathy leaps into his pyre. And through death, Mandhappan becomes Kathivanoor Veeran, the deity.”

Witnessing a Theyyam requires preparation — understanding the characters and their stories from a human lens rather than a perspective of reverence. The art form ties together the physical and metaphysical, uniting man and God, played out in an overwhelming multi-sensory experience.

Following thottam, rituals called vellattam and payattu take place, which may not be present for all the Theyyams. This stage represents the deity’s youth.

Kathivanoor Veeran during Payattu
| Photo Credit:
Nainu Oommen

Kathivanoor Veeran Theyyam Kathivanoor Veeran Theyyam blessing a devotee after Vellattam
| Photo Credit:
Nainu Oommen

Gurukkal Theyyam

Gurukkal Theyyam blessing a devotee during Velattam
| Photo Credit:
Nainu Oommen

Following the end of the Kathivanoor Veeran’s payattu, another Theyyam enters the arena – Gurukkal Theyyam.

Gurukkal Theyyam during Mukhamezhuthu
| Photo Credit:
Nainu Oommen

Gurukkal Theyyam amidst embers
| Photo Credit:
Nainu Oommen

Gurukkal Theyyam is believed to be the spirit of a skilled tantric minister, Kunhiraman, who was called to treat the sickness of a Veeryakolath king from Koodali. The legend says that Kunhiraman Gurukkal was rewarded by the king for saving him and sent home with two bodyguards, who, out of envy, murdered him. “It is said that Gurukkal’s books flew back to the king and told him what had ensued”, says Balan.

Gurukkal Theyyam in its final stage
| Photo Credit:
Nainu Oommen

Kaliyattam, the culmination

The time is a few minutes past 1am. “Get some sleep while you can before the kaliyattam (main performance),” Balan says, reminding me that Kathivanoor Veeran will enter the performance arena soon. I choose to sleep on the temple floor, determined not to miss anything, only to wake up next to a few others — some of them I identify as chenda players and helpers from the previous evening.

There is silence as Vinu transforms into the warrior-turned-God inside a covered dressing room during his mukhathezhuttu (makeup and transformation). This takes place for four to six hours.

Kathivanoor Veeran Theyyam during Kaliyattam
| Photo Credit:
Nainu Oommen

During the Kaliyattam or culmination of the performance, the artiste’s transformation to God is said to be complete.

Devotees during Kathivanoor Veeran Theyyam Kaliyattam
| Photo Credit:
Nainu Oommen

Simultaneously, in an unnerving sight, devotees walk towards the lamp to pour more oil into the torches, as an offering to the God. The freshly stoked fire is further aggravated, with men and women (even carrying children) walking towards the fire in a sign of devotion. Parents carry their infants to the pyre on one arm.

Kathivanoor Veeran Theyyam during Kaliyattam
| Photo Credit:
Nainu Oommen

With a sword and shield in his hand, the Kathivanoor Veeran further dances around the rousing fire till the sun rises in Kavvayi. The aggressive movements die down as the Theyyam turns gentle, blessing his devotees.

The rhythm of the ritual slows down, but not for long. Two roosters are brought to the Theyyam for sacrifice. He breaks their necks — silence follows in the courtyard.

Kathivanoor Veeran Theyyam being narrated his life story for the last time
| Photo Credit:
Nainu Oommen

A ritualistic performance

Following the sacrifice, Kathivanoor Veeran faces the consecration, standing on a wooden stool. And for the last time, his tale of love, bravery, heartbreak, and betrayal is narrated to him. Only a few helpers from the previous night, including Balan, are left in the courtyard, cleaning the ashes from the arena. “Visitors often do not stay for the entirety of the festivals, missing rituals like vellattam and other rites before and after the main performance, for a lot of them it’s just about capturing the visual,” says Santhosh.

As the rites progress, the artiste shall soon return to his humane self, until his next divine evocation. “For us, the performance ends with us apologising to God for any mistakes we have made during the act,” says Balan. He points out that these “gods” work in professions such as carpentry, painting, and umbrella repair during the off-season. Loading the headgear and other trinkets for the next performance into an auto, he says, “We are humans at the end of the day.”

On March 8, the world’s fastest cars will sweep through Melbourne’s Albert Park Circuit for the Australian Grand Prix. If you are here now, chances are the city will feel busier than usual. Melbourne knows how to put on a show.

There is a plenty to do off the track as well. Melbourne is well known for its art, architecture, and food..

Dinner, drinks and glamour

On Bourke Street, Maison Bâtard presents modern French culture. Try the crab tartlet topped with caviar and the thick-cut, perfectly tender steak.

A short walk away, Apollo Inn transports you to another decade. Order the bittersweet Lucien Gaudin, led by gin and Campari, and Hazelnut Martinis, which have a mellow, nutty richness.

Around the corner, diner Gimlet at Cavendish House reminisces 1920s glamour. There is a touch of European charisma here with its high ceilings, curved banquettes, and brass accents that echo grand continental dining rooms. The lobster is rich and buttery, a dish that makes you work a little bit, but by the last bite you are content, and convincing yourself to go for a second round.

Art by the way

After the morning coffee, a walk across Federation Square, leading to The Ian Potter Centre: NGV Australia is a bonus if you are a history buff.

Wurrdha Marra, meaning “many mobs” in the Wurundjeri Woi Wurrung language — the language of the Wurundjeri People, the traditional custodians of Melbourne region — showcases powerful First Nations’ works, while the Bark Salon gathers more than 150 bark paintings.

A short walk takes you to the Koorie Heritage Trust. The public tour, the Birrarung Wilam Walk, tells us the Aboriginal history of the Yarra River and the Kulin Nation.

A single sculler rows along the Yarra River
| Photo Credit:
AFP

The culinary circuit

A ‘Bucket List’ tasting tour (upwards of AUD 199 per person) with This Is Melbourne includes up to 10 tastings across multiple premium restaurant stops, all led by a local guide, and takes you through the city’s culinary world. You walk, talk and taste your way through the city for up to four hours.

In Hosier Lane in Melbourne’s central business district (CBD), MoVida continues to uphold Spanish flavours with seasonal Australian produce. There, the Anchoa is a bit of a surprise: Cantabrian anchovy against crisp crouton, balanced by the touch of tomato sorbet. It is refreshing and gone in two bites. And don’t forget to check out Lucy Liu Kitchen & Bar on Oliver Lane which brings out a modern Asian edge to the table. The soft-shell crab wrap here is a standout. And at Pastuso, nearby on AC/DC Lane, Peruvian influences speak to Melbourne’s multicultural appetite. The ceviche is top notch, fresh fish in sharp leche de tigre with red onion and sweet slices of orange sweet potato.

Then there is Queen Victoria Market, spanning seven hectares and operating since 1878. On an Ultimate Foodies Tour organised by Queen Victoria Market’s official tour programme, people offer generous tastings while telling the story behind the market’s history. It is a place where Melbourne’s culinary prowess begins at the source.

When you are tired from walking and want to have a lunch, head to Higher Ground, which is across tiered platforms inside a heritage-listed powerhouse. The chilli scrambled eggs are soft and luscious, folded over warm flatbread and finished with chillies and herbs. It may sound simple, but it is a must try.

After dark

As evening settles, a walk through the busiest, yet very expressive laneway might take you into ease.

A street art experience with Depot Adventures reveals hidden laneway bars and towering murals that transform brick corridors into open-air galleries. The city’s creative phase is most vivid here. Pre-dinner drinks at Caretakers Cottage, awarded Bar of the Year at the Australian Bar Award, and then dinner at Reed House, just a three-minute walk away, close the night. Within the historic Manse Building contemporary Australian cuisine draws inspiration from British brasseries.

Weekend getaways (Box)

Not venturing far? No problem. Here is what to expect around the city during Formula 1 weekend:

The Formula 1 Exhibition, open until April 2026, offers fans a dive into the sport before lights out. Historic cars, engineering displays and behind-the-scenes storytelling make it more than a photo opportunity, it is a small gateway to understand the sports in a more fun way.

And at Federation Square, you can expect free outdoor programming, live performances, screenings and community events. It is a major meeting point where visitors and locals come together mid-sessions.

If you are planning to stay and looking for a small adventure, a drive along the Great Ocean Road, ending at the iconic Twelve Apostles, may provide a scenic, serene pause after an exciting weekend.

Published – March 05, 2026 04:56 pm IST

Thai mural spread out on a wall
| Photo Credit: Special Arrangement

There are moments when geopolitics feels like an abstraction, the sort of thing discussed in think-tank panels and policy journals, and then there are weeks like this one, when it arrives in the most ordinary of places: departures board at an airport, WhatsApp calls from worried parents, and the uneasy silence of the runway.

The latest tremor began with the joint American and Israeli military strikes on Iranian targets in late February. In the days that followed, the geography of the conflict widened in ways that few residents of the region could ignore: missiles were intercepted over multiple Gulf Cooperation Council states, a drone strike sparked a fire near the US Consulate in Dubai, and governments across the region moved quickly to close or restrict airspace as a precaution.

For the United Arab Emirates — a country that has built its modern identity on efficiency, safety and the promise that things simply work — the disruption was felt first in the sky. Dubai International Airport, normally one of the busiest crossroads of global aviation, saw flights vanish from its schedule as airlines scrambled to reroute aircraft away from contested airspace. Hundreds of flights were cancelled across the region in the early days of the crisis alone, leaving passengers stranded.

Man walking through airport terminal and looking at departure information
| Photo Credit:
Chalabala

In Dubai’s Jumeirah neighbourhood, Anirudh Nair, a 39-year-old fintech risk analyst originally from Kochi, first sensed that something unusual was unfolding not through headlines but through the skyline. From the balcony of his apartment on the evening of February 28, he watched streaks of light cutting across the horizon in arcs that did not resemble the steady approach of commercial aircraft. “Dubai’s night sky is usually very predictable,” he said. “You see planes lining up for landing, construction cranes blinking red across the skyline. That night, the lights were moving differently.”

Messages quickly began circulating in neighbourhood WhatsApp groups suggesting that air-defence systems had intercepted drones or missiles somewhere over the Gulf. Official statements later confirmed that projectiles aimed at US interests in the region had been neutralised.

“The city itself stayed calm,” Anirudh said. “But you could tell something had changed.”

The following morning, he opened the Emirates app to confirm the flight he had booked to Kochi for a family function: “It had simply disappeared from the schedule.”

Dubai skyline
| Photo Credit:
MarekKijevsky

Like many travellers that day, he spent hours trying to reach airline helplines, only to encounter automated messages about unusually high call volumes. Eventually, the airline issued a refund for the cancelled ticket, though securing another seat proved difficult as passengers across the region began trying to rearrange their journeys simultaneously.

“At some point you stop calling and just keep refreshing the app,” he said. “You hope something opens up.”

Anirudh is postponing any plans of visiting India.

Finding hope

Several hundred kilometres away, Priyanka Sharma was navigating the same disruption from a different angle. A pharmaceutical sales manager from Pune, she had travelled to Doha for meetings tied to a healthcare distribution project her company was negotiating with a regional partner. The plan had included two days of meetings, then a flight back to Mumbai.

The meetings turned out to be the least complicated part of the trip.

“People started checking their phones as soon as the news about the strikes began circulating,” she said. “At first, everything still looked normal.” Over the next few hours, departure boards at Hamad International Airport began changing as airlines reassessed routes through regional airspace. Flights were delayed and eventually cancelled, including Sharma’s return service to India. “The airline told us the ticket would be refunded,” she said. “But that doesn’t mean you can immediately get another seat.” Her employer extended her stay in Doha and arranged accommodation at a nearby hotel, advising staff not to rush to the airport unless they had confirmed bookings.

Passenger checking her flight status
| Photo Credit:
Sirichok Dee-phicharn

For the next two days, Priyanka has tried several alternatives — direct flights, connections through Muscat and even a longer route through Colombo — but seats appeared and vanished from booking apps almost instantly.

“You would see a seat available for a few seconds and then it would disappear,” she said. “It felt like everyone in the Gulf was trying to rebook at the same time.” Priyanka is holding out hope to return to India soon.

Don’t panic

The scale of the Indian presence in the region makes disruptions like these particularly complex. According to estimates cited by Anish Gawande, national spokesperson for the Nationalist Congress Party – Sharadchandra Pawar faction, roughly 3.5 to 4.5 million Indians live in the United Arab Emirates, while nearly 10 million Indian citizens live across the Gulf region.

“The advice right now is simple: stay where you are and avoid unnecessary travel,” Anish said. “People should also stay away from areas around US military or diplomatic establishments.” He emphasised that civilians are not the intended targets of the attacks. “These are drone interceptions,” he said. “What people are seeing in some places is debris falling from intercepted drones. These are not targeted strikes on civilian homes or residential areas.”

Because of the sheer size of the Indian diaspora in the region, large-scale evacuation would be extremely difficult if panic were to set in. “You simply cannot move people overnight,” he said. “The most important thing right now is to remain calm and allow diplomatic de-escalation to take its course.”

For now, the biggest challenges are logistical rather than security-related. Travellers whose flights were cancelled are often being accommodated by airlines, though not always consistently. “Some stranded passengers are being put up in hotels by airlines, but many others are having to fend for themselves and pay extremely high prices for accommodation or alternative tickets,” he said.

The problem is particularly stressful for travellers stuck mid-journey, especially those who were transiting through West Asia from Europe or North America and suddenly found their connecting flights cancelled. “Refunds alone don’t solve the problem,” he said. “In many cases, they don’t come close to covering the cost of new tickets under current conditions.”

Qatar Airways aero plane takeoff over Doha Sky
| Photo Credit:
hasan zaidi

State governments in India have begun setting up support systems for citizens abroad. Maharashtra and Karnataka have both launched helplines, while citizen groups and volunteers are helping connect stranded travellers with accommodation, medications and other essential assistance.

You’re safe with us

While travellers across the Gulf were scrambling to rearrange their journeys, events were unfolding somewhat differently in Jordan. Freelance journalist Chandreyi Bandyopadhyay had arrived in the country a few days earlier as part of a press trip organised by Royal Jordanian and the Jordan Tourism Board.

On February 28, the group was in Aqaba, Jordan’s southern port city, where the geography of the Red Sea brings several borders unusually close together. That afternoon had unfolded with the visiting journalists swimming and snorkelling along the coast. Later that evening, however, the sky offered a reminder of how near the wider conflict had drawn.

“From our hotel balcony, we could see missiles streaking across the sky toward Israel,” Chandreyi said. “There were no sirens in Aqaba, but seeing those trails made the situation suddenly feel very real.”

Soon afterwards, the organisers moved the group back to Amman, the Jordanian capital.

Overnight, sirens sounded intermittently across the city and flashes could occasionally be seen in the distance as interceptions took place beyond the surrounding hills. The following day the group travelled to Jerash, about 60 kilometres North of Amman, where the sound of fighter jets passing overhead could be heard.

Woman at the airport
| Photo Credit:
tulcarion

Yet what struck her most was the calm with which people around them approached the situation. “Our guide kept telling us not to worry,” she said. “He said Jordanians are used to living between conflicts even though the country itself is not part of them.”

Jordan’s location has long placed it near regional tensions, and residents have grown accustomed to moments when events elsewhere echo briefly across their skies. Locals told the group that during periods of heightened activity fragments from intercepted drones or missiles sometimes land in open areas outside cities, and residents occasionally go out after hearing sirens simply to see where debris might have fallen.

Despite the tension overhead, daily life in Amman appeared largely unchanged. Shops remained open, highways were operational, and traffic moved through the capital’s hills much as it always does, though security presence was noticeably tighter around government buildings and royal compounds.

Group of people walking at the airport terminal
| Photo Credit:
baona

Chandreyi and the other journalists were staying at a local hotel where accommodation and meals had been arranged as part of the visit. For much of the trip organisers assured them that their scheduled departure on March 2 would proceed normally.

Embassies were monitoring their nationals as well. The Indian Embassy in Amman contacted Chandreyi and other travellers to ask them to register their presence so officials could track citizens in case assistance became necessary. Even amid the uncertainty, small gestures of hospitality continued.

At one point, when the group appeared anxious about travel plans, organisers suggested a brief detour to one of Amman’s well-known dessert shops. “They told us we needed to relax,” she said. Chandreyi arrived in Mumbai on March 3.

Open doors

Elsewhere in Dubai, another resident had responded to the disruption in her own way. Rhea Mehra, who manages several rental apartments across the country, posted a brief message on Instagram offering temporary accommodation to families stranded by cancelled flights free of cost.

“Within a few hours we had more than a thousand messages,” she said. “People were sending screenshots of cancelled tickets and asking if they could stay for a few nights.”

Rhea manages roughly 50 apartments across Dubai and prioritised families travelling with children and elderly passengers. About 50 families were eventually able to stay in the apartments while waiting for flights to reopen or alternative routes to become available.

“We couldn’t help everyone,” she said, “but we tried to help where we could.”

When the Mercedes-Benz V-Class first went on sale in India in 2019, it introduced the idea of a high-end MPV wearing a three-pointed star. While it offered generous space and comfort, its execution still felt closer to a well-appointed van than a bespoke luxury product. The 2026 iteration signals a clear departure from that template. Mercedes-Benz has reworked the V-Class with sharper positioning, richer materials and a more comprehensive equipment list, effectively pushing it into a different bracket altogether.

In India, the Mercedes-Benz V-Class is offered exclusively in its Extra Long Wheelbase variant. At 5,370 mm in length with a 3,430 mm wheelbase, the vehicle’s footprint is substantial, yet the design manages to avoid any commercial-van connotations. The AMG Line exterior package is standard, bringing a star-pattern grille, sculpted bumpers, AMG detailing and 18-inch alloy wheels. A full-width LED light strip and adaptive LED headlamps add a contemporary signature. The latter uses 84 individually controlled LEDs per unit to modulate the beam pattern according to traffic conditions, a feature that is particularly useful for night-time highway driving.

Practical features like electric sliding doors, split tailgate, and generous luggage space make the V-Class ideal for families and executives
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

Under the bonnet, Mercedes-Benz now offers both petrol and diesel options, for the V-Class in India — a first for the model. The V300 petrol uses a 2.0-litre four-cylinder turbocharged engine producing 170 kW (228 bhp), augmented by a 15 kW (20 bhp) mild-hybrid system. The diesel V300d employs a 2.0-litre unit delivering 174 kW (233 bhp). Both engines are paired with the 9G-TRONIC automatic transmission. While outright acceleration is not the primary focus in this segment, the outputs ensure relaxed cruising capability and sufficient reserve power for overtaking duties, even when the cabin is fully occupied.

A standout engineering upgrade is the availability of AIRMATIC air suspension on both powertrains, making India the first global market to receive this configuration. The system continuously adjusts damping characteristics and maintains a constant ride height, lowering slightly at higher speeds to improve stability. Considering the varied nature of Indian roads, the inclusion of air suspension significantly enhances ride comfort and composure, particularly over uneven surfaces.

The 2026 Mercedes-Benz V-Class in India showcases its sleek AMG Line exterior and full-length LED light strip
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

Inside, the transformation of the V-Class is most striking. The six-seat layout defines the experience, with two individual captain seats in the second row forming the centrepiece, equipped with three-stage ventilation, massage functions, calf support, wireless charging and fold-out cup holders. The third row, often an afterthought in large vehicles, receives ventilated seats as standard — a segment-first feature — along with ISOFIX child-seat mounts and dedicated USB charging points. This ensures parity of comfort across all passenger positions.

Mercedes-Benz also allows customers to tailor the seating layout with three configurations. The first being a proper three row set up, the second option removes the third row completely and pushes the second row all the way back on the floor-mounted rails to create an executive lounge, while the third configuration gets the second and third row seats to face each other for a business lounge set up.

AIRMATIC air suspension ensures a composed ride over uneven roads, enhancing comfort for all passengers
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

The front seats are electrically adjustable and ventilated, with cushion length adjustment to improve long-distance comfort. Materials and finish levels are a noticeable step up from the previous model. Lugano leather upholstery, available in beige or black, combines with 64-colour ambient lighting to create a cabin environment that feels deliberately premium rather than functional. The Burmester surround sound system, rated at 640 watts with 15 speakers and Dolby Atmos capability, delivers a high-quality audio experience that complements the V-Class’s role as a mobile lounge.

Comfort features extend beyond seating and sound. Automatic climate control, heat-insulating green-tinted glass and integrated sun blinds enhance privacy and temperature management. The Comfort programmes synchronise lighting, audio and climate settings into curated modes designed to reduce fatigue on long journeys. These may appear ancillary features on paper, in practice they make a tangible difference to passenger well-being, reinforcing the V-Class’s identity as a premium mobile lounge.

AIRMATIC air suspension ensures a composed ride over uneven roads, enhancing comfort for all passengers
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

Technology and safety are comprehensively addressed in the V-Class. The vehicle is equipped with seven airbags, including window airbags extending from the A to D pillars. Driver assistance systems include Active Distance Assist, Active Lane Keeping Assist, Blind Spot Assist with Rear Cross Traffic Alert and Attention Assist with driver monitoring. A 360-degree camera system, supported by 12 ultrasonic sensors and Active Parking Assist, helps mitigate the challenges posed by its size in urban environments.

Practicality remains a core strength of the V-Class proposition. Electric sliding doors on both sides facilitate convenient entry and exit, particularly in tight parking spaces. The electrically operated split tailgate enhances loading flexibility. Even with all six seats in place, luggage space remains generous, reinforcing its suitability for airport runs, intercity transfers and extended family travel.

Inside, the six-seat cabin features ventilated massaging captain seats and 64-colour ambient lighting for premium comfort
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

The intended clientele for the V-Class is clear. Business owners who prefer to conduct calls and meetings on the move, celebrities seeking discreet yet comfortable transport, and high-net-worth families in need of a spacious second vehicle will find the V-Class aligned with their requirements. Unlike large SUVs that prioritise height and visual dominance, the V-Class focuses on interior volume and occupant comfort. For families accustomed to travelling together — often with staff or pets —it delivers genuine practicality without compromising on style or the prestige of the Mercedes-Benz brand.

The fact that Mercedes-Benz has initiated local production further underscores its commitment to this segment. It also allows for sharper pricing, which is perhaps the most significant part of the overall equation. At an introductory price of INR 1.40 crore, the V-Class occupies a compelling position in the market. It undercuts the Lexus LM 350h — currently priced at close to INR 2.5 crore in India — by a substantial margin. In doing so, it presents a persuasive alternative for buyers seeking a full-size luxury MPV with established badge value, strong equipment levels and a clearly defined identity as a refined family and executive vehicle.

Price: INR 1.40 crore

Motorscribes, in association with The Hindu, brings you the latest in cars and bikes. Follow them on Instagram on @motorscribes

Published – March 05, 2026 10:47 am IST

At the inaugural edition of the Kochi Comic Con, held at the Adlux International Convention Centre, at Angamaly near Kochi, on February 27 and March 1, popular icons of the past and present, ranging from Dr Strange from the Multiverse of Madness to the iconic Malayalam comic characters Mayavi and Luttapi, strolled around casually. The event saw a footfall of around 20,000 people, bringing together fans from across the country and transforming it into a multicultural pageant.

“The first edition of Comic Con in Kerala was truly spectacular. The love and excitement shown by the attendees is something we consistently witness across the cities we visit, which makes me believe that India is indeed united by pop culture,” says Shefali Johnson, CEO, Comic Con India.

Cosplay took centre stage at the Comic Con, as more than 100 participants turned up as different characters from comics, anime and manga, among others. “Kerala has always had a strong artistic culture. You see it in Kathakali, Theyyam, Koodiyattam, and the mural traditions across the state. This was visible at the event. Cosplayers approached their craft seriously, audience engaged thoughtfully during panels, and the overall warmth made this debut incredibly special for us,” says Shefali.

The cosplay arena paved the way for both rookie and experienced cosplayers. Samannay Majumder, a Bengaluru-based chip validation engineer by day, has been a cosplayer for the past six years, exploring Comic Cons across the country during this period. “I decided to come here because it was just a night bus ride away,” says Samannay, showing off an intricate blue Dr Strange attire with additional limbs attached to his back and makeup. He also carried a detailed model of the Darkhold, a sentient, ancient book of forbidden dark magic mentioned in the movies and comics.

 Samannay Majumder as Dr Strange
| Photo Credit:
SPECIAL ARRANGEMENT

“My favourite part about cosplaying is interacting with the fans of my character. It makes my day, just to see their excitement,” says Swetha Thankachan, from Pathanamthitta, who dressed up as Nobara Kugisaki from the manga series Jujutsu Kaisen.

Swetha Thankachan as Nobara Kugisaki at Kochi Comic Con
| Photo Credit:
SPECIAL ARRANGEMENT

Thiruvananthapuram-based architect, Shivsankar Kailash, was cosplaying for the third time. He came in as Chainsaw Man from the eponymous horror anime series. “The fanbase is what brings me to cosplay. Everyone appreciates your work. That gives you a lot of satisfaction,” says Shivsankar, who donned the “devil form” of the character in the show, represented by four chainsaw hands. “It took me one night and a day to prepare this costume, which is entirely made of cardboard, paper, gum and spray paint,” he adds.

Ayaan Aswin Ram, 12, entered his maiden Comic Con, dressed up as Ryomen Sukuna, the antagonist of Jujutsu Kaisen, motivated by the high-octane action sequences in the show. He says, “It is a great experience, seeing how people join you to take photos and share the love you have for the characters.”

It was her affinity for the Demon Lord from the anime show Heaven Official’s Blessing that saw Sivaganga Jyothi make her debut as him. The 19-year-old says her desire to cosplay comes from her love for bringing characters to life.

For friends Digil CD, Waheda Pyarilal and Binoy T Varghese, the Comic Con was an opportunity to pay tribute to their favourite characters — Mayavi and Luttapi (from the periodical Balarama) and Minnal Murali from the 2021 Malayalam movie. “We decided that we must pay homage to characters from Kerala, especially when we have so many iconic ones to choose from,” says Digil, who is attending a Comic Con for the first time. The group’s makeshift costumes made of shorts and plain nylon t-shirts, with iconic horns, caught the attention of many at the festival. “Our experience has been great. Everyone has been appreciative,” says Digil.

Binoy T Varghese as Minnal Murali, Waheda Pyarilal as Luttapi and Digil CD as Mayavi
| Photo Credit:
SPECIAL ARRANGEMENT

Shefali says, “We hope to see more people joining in the coming years and feel free to openly express their love for pop culture.”

Published – March 05, 2026 09:00 am IST

Textile reviver Pankaja Sethi’s creation
| Photo Credit: Special Arrangement

In a bold display of grit and global sisterhood, 35 women entrepreneurs set off on a 1,000-km auto-rickshaw rally from Chennai to Goa.

“As the founder of the group, I see this as both a challenging and adventurous experience — and an opportunity to prove that women can endure the toughest situations and emerge victorious. When it is combined with a social cause, the sense of fulfilment is even greater,” says Emma Sayle, founder of Kensington & Chelsea Group (KK Group), UK. Blending endurance, camaraderie and philanthropy, the rally highlights the resilience and determination of women entrepreneurs, while reinforcing their commitment to making a meaningful social impact.

The Sisterhood Group all set for the rally
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

The rally flagged off from Chennai at 9 a.m. on March 3. For the participants, the journey in an auto-rickshaw blends adventure with purpose, using travel as a platform to raise funds and awareness for causes supporting women and children. “We learned to drive an auto-rickshaw in just two days, and we’ve thoroughly enjoyed riding around the city. Now, we are really looking forward to the road trip,” says Frankie James, who runs a publishing firm in the UK and also took part in the rally last year.

Organised in collaboration with The Sisterhood Group, the rally will drive across cities, towns and highways, symbolising determination, solidarity and a shared commitment to creating meaningful social impact.

“Stepping out of one’s comfort zone to drive an auto-rickshaw and face unexpected challenges is a valuable life experience that boosts self-confidence,” says Frankie James. “We realise that women often endure more than men and can multitask efficiently. Most of us stay in touch with our colleagues and even participate in business meetings while on the trip,” adds Emma Sayle.

For Darcy Croft, a new grandmother, this marks her maiden trip to India. Formerly a midwife with the National Health Service (NHS) in the UK, she recently left her role to embark on a new journey as an entrepreneur. “I was grappling with the unexpected death of one of my patients, who was full-term pregnant. That was when Emma invited me to join this rally in India. As the funds raised will be used for women’s development, maternal health and sustainable livelihood programmes, I joined without a second thought,” says Darcy, as she displays a box of her newly launched product for lactating mothers, manufactured by her company.

On day one, the participants will reach Vellore. From there, they will travel onward to Bengaluru, Mysuru, Mangaluru and Bhatkal, before finally arriving in Goa on Day Seven. “This rally demonstrates how global collaboration can create grassroots impact. It blends adventure with accountability, creating leaders who engage, understand, and build lasting change,” says Ulagu Palaniappan Circler from Madras Midtown Ladies Circle 7. The 2025 rally raised over ₹1 crore with 52 participants. This year’s edition is smaller and more focused, led by Emma Sayle, with an emphasis on deeper engagement and impact.

Darcey Croft
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

Professional tour operators, Travel scientists, oversees the licensing process to manage logistics, safety, and on-road support throughout the rally. “We manage minor setbacks such as change of tyre or fixing the engine by ourselves. We reach out to the mechanics’ team only when we’re unable to manage it,” says Frankie. The rally team is followed by a support bus carrying luggage, spare parts and other essentials.

Supported locally by Madras Midtown Round Table 42 (MMRT42) and Madras Midtown Ladies Circle 7 (MMLC7), the auto rickshaw expedition is more than an adventure, it is a powerful mission. Let’s Goa 2026 demonstrates how global collaboration can create grassroots impact. Donations for the initiative continue to be welcomed through the Sisterhood Rally 2026 online portal.

The team will be followed by a support bus
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

Founded in 2006, The Sisterhood Group has consistently undertaken extreme challenges to raise funds for charitable causes. Their past initiatives include dragon boating across the English Channel, competing in the Amazon Raft Race, and participating in the Marathon des Sables.

Published – March 04, 2026 12:35 pm IST

In the moonlit gardens of a palace, I stand in a cabbage patch with a chef and a hoe.

Chef Bikram Chandra Khadka cuts through the warm earth, careful to keep his white apron pristine. There is a clang. We kneel and lift out a steamy bundle, wrapped in sackcloth and bound with wire. A little deeper, we unearth a sealed handi. The seductive scent of caramelised meat, threaded with damp earth and smoke, wraps around us.

Dinner is served.

Chefs unwrap meat that has been slow cooked underground at Ajit Bhawan
| Photo Credit:
Shonali Muthalaly

I am at Ajit Bhawan, built in 1927 as the residence of Maharaj Dhiraj Sir Ajit Singh, the younger brother of Maharaja Umaid Singh of Jodhpur. In the late 1970s, part of it was opened to guests by the family, introducing the romance of royal Rajasthan to the world.

Heritage hotels across Rajasthan tend to lean heavily on history, glamour and laal maas. Ajit Bhawan is breaking away from the clichés by reviving and updating lost royal recipes for a modern audience, learning from the past while building for the future.

Dinner is served at Dhani, an open air restaurant celebrating traditional Rajasthani food
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

My first lunch of jungli maas at the hotel is deeply satisfying. Made with lean, flavour-dense mutton from Narlai village, where herds roam freely and feed off the arid grasslands, it stays true to the simple recipe that originated from royal hunts: just ghee, salt, garlic and local brick-red Mathania chillies, famed for their complex, smoky heat.

“Now, they eat light food at the palace, things like salads and soups,” smiles Chef Bikram. But even as the palace kitchens have quietened, the hotel is becoming a testing ground for extravagant menus that keep the past alive.

High tea at the palace lawns featuring samosa and kachoris
| Photo Credit:
Shonali Muthalaly

After all, this is a family that created what is arguably India’s first heritage hotel.

“In the early days, the family would take care of each guest personally, from taking bookings to supervising the rooms. Maharaj Swaroop Singh ji would say every guest is an ambassador,” says Magan Kanwar, assistant front office manager, as she checks me in and hands me my ornate brass room key. She adds, “He started the Bishnoi village safaris. He would drive the jeep and take visitors to show them the culture of Rajasthan.”

Gol Kamra at Ajit Bhawan Palace, once the family dining room and now a private space for them to meet visiting dignitaries
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

Suraj Panwar, the reservations and revenue manager, explains how the palace, built in 1927, is still home to the royals, who occupy a section of the sprawling six-acre estate. Like the rest of the staff — some of whom have worked at the property for three decades — he talks fondly of the family, who are still deeply involved with the hotel. “They check the rooms, approve the fabric and linen. Rani Usha Devi oversees the gardens…” Raj Ratnu, front office manager, nods: “They know all of us, and meet our families as well as locals during the annual Holi celebrations.”

Pair this loyalty with the drive of Ajit Bhawan’s current generation, Raghavendra Rathore (the popular fashion designer) and Suryaveer Singh, and the result is a lovingly tended, unapologetically whimsical getaway: we eat samosas for high tea under a canopy in the garden one day, supervised by the friendly palace cat, and nibble on kachoris the next, in the royal Gol Kamra shimmering with chandeliers and crystal decanters beneath curved elephant tusks and a giant stuffed alligator.

The J Bar at Ajit Bhawan features a ceiling strewn with palanquins, gleaming bird cages and polished kettles
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

At night, we sit in the shadowy bar, drinking spicy picantes under a roof strewn with vintage palanquins. As we walk back to our rooms, we are guided by buttery, flickering lamps, painstakingly set out and lit by the palace staff every evening.

Which brings us back to that handi in the mud. It is the highlight of our dinner at Dhani, the hotel’s open-air restaurant lit with starlight and dramatic lamps.

Nitin Sud, the charismatic area general manager, who also oversees the family’s other hotel, Rawla Narlai, set in a 17th Century hunting lodge, talks about how working with the royals has given him a new understanding of luxury. “It is not about amenities or room size. It’s about hospitality, about consistency and personalisation. It is about people,” he says.

And patience. “We marinated the meat for 8 hours. Then wrapped it in wheat and banana leaves before putting it in the ground at 5 pm,” says Chef Bikram, looking at his watch. “It is 9 pm now.”

A thali that highlights recipes from the Jodhpur royal family
| Photo Credit:
Shonali Muthalaly

Traditionally made with game meat like wild boar, khada maans originated in the 15th Century and was cooked in hot sand dunes through the day. It is fall-off-the-bone tender, and the whole spices hum gently in the background. The boneless mutton in the handi, a recipe from the former Maharaja Ajit Singh, is delicate yet deeply savoury, the meat seared with ghee and thinly sliced onions, then cooked with Mathania chillies, whole spices and masala powders.

The thali that follows is a century away from the quick, modern versions now popular across the country. There is a cooling Bajra raab to drink, emerald green chandaliya ki subzi, a traditional rural stir-fry made from the local leafy green that grows wild during the monsoon, and a comforting maans ka soweeta, a one-pot meal from Marwar, where chunks of mutton are slow cooked with bajra and vegetables.

Similar to jungli maas, I try sikari murghi made by Rajput warrior cooks on hunts. “It was done with a local breed of hen that is harder to catch,” says Chef Bikram, adding with a laugh, “As it browns, we just add water. Rajasthani water has a high sodium content, it is like stock.” There is also a slow-cooked layered rice, fragrant with saffron and crunchy with nuts, cooked in heavy sealed pots and sometimes slow-baked underground.

A chef unwraps meat that has been slow cooked underground at Ajit Bhawan
| Photo Credit:
Shonali Muthalaly

Earlier in the day, we explored the blue city’s century-old havelis, picking our way through garbage and open sewers to admire the intricate jaali work and the beautiful hues of blue. In between, I tried all the street food legends: makhania lassi at Mishrilal Hotel that was overwhelmingly sweet, plump gulab jamuns that were rather mellow and huge kachoris fried in ghee.

At a time when food revels in theatrics, what makes Ajit Bhawan’s menus so alluring is restraint. I cannot put down their version of makhania lassi, served in small mud cups: it’s tangy with an almost elusive whisper of saffron.

In keeping with tradition, Nitin had taken us to the Bishnoi village in the morning, where Tulsi Ram, who learned all his English on the BBC, smiled and declared, “I’m going to spread my dreams beneath your feet,” before rolling out his handmade dhurries and explaining how each one takes a month to make.

In the evening, as dinner gives way to late-night tequila shots accompanied by slices of oranges topped with caramelised sugar and cinnamon, Nitin tells us how he once helped the team light 1,500 diyas at the Rawla Narlai stepwell, so guests could eat dinner in their flickering light.

Ajit Bhawan’s royals pioneered the Bishnoi village safaris, which are now popular with Jodhpur tourists
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

I lean back and look at the stars, under gloriously tangled bougainvillea bushes aflame with flowers. A weekend revelling in the extravagance of a palace is undeniably a privilege. But this glimpse of royal life also reveals that real luxury lies in being surrounded by a loyal community, generous with their time and talent.

The writer was in Jodhpur on invitation from Ajit Bhawan