Life & Style

The party I didn’t throw


‘I’ve reached a stage where I’m done performing.’

‘I’ve reached a stage where I’m done performing.’
| Photo Credit: Getty Images/iStock

I dread Saturdays. Not because of work. In fact, I often work through them, at least, in part. But because Saturdays have somehow become the unofficial day for social obligation. The kind that arrives via polite group chats, gentle nudges, or photos of themed potlucks you weren’t part of. You don’t decline anything, but somehow, you’re already behind.

My husband and I are both bureaucrats who recently moved to Delhi. He joined a badminton group at a Delhi club, a lively mix of serving and retired officers. From what I hear, it’s not just a game. It’s an event. They play, they laugh, they celebrate birthdays right there on the court with samosas, cake and spirited group selfies. There’s a WhatsApp group where the energy continues long after the match is over.

I’m not in that group. I’ve never met most of the people involved. But I hear about them often. The jokes, the birthday rituals and the casual expectation that we’ll host something soon.

To host or not to host

Lately, those “gentle reminders” aimed at my husband have morphed into cheerful bullying. All in good humour, of course, the kind that expects you to take the hint.

My husband, who considers 10 p.m. a reckless hour, looks angsty every time the group teases him about not hosting. “Let’s just host something and get it over with,” he says now.

And so, here I am, facing the question: to host or not to host?

I haven’t said yes. Not because I dislike people. But because I dislike pressure disguised as friendliness. The kind that insists we all participate equally in a rhythm we didn’t necessarily choose. The kind that implies you owe something to the group even if you’re not part of it, simply because your life now brushes up against it.

What complicates it further is the deeper social script many of us carry, especially women. That we must be warm. Welcoming. Up for it. That if we don’t host, attend, coordinate, or celebrate with sufficient enthusiasm, we’re somehow failing at community. That being seen as boring or “not a sport” is worse than being tired or uninterested. And so, many of us end up hosting evenings we don’t enjoy, cooking for crowds we didn’t invite, spending precious energy on performance — all because we don’t want to seem like the only one opting out.

Quiet Saturdays

But I’ve reached a stage where I’m done performing.

I have a demanding job. I have children in intense academic years and a home that, like most, runs on invisible labour. I don’t have an empty weekend to spare. And even if I did, I might just want to do nothing with it.

I also know myself. I like quiet Saturdays. I enjoy my own company. I have a small circle of close friends who are calm, intelligent and not in competition over how often we meet or how well we host. I don’t need a group to feel included. And I don’t think social obligation should masquerade as belonging.

If I ever throw a party and I might, it will be because I want to. On a weekend that feels like it belongs to me. With people I genuinely want to feed, not impress.

Until then, I’ll be at home. Drinking tea. Reading something I didn’t need a group to recommend. Taking a nap that I won’t apologise for. And no, I will not be hosting anything next Saturday.

The writer is a commissioner of Income Tax and presently posted as spokesperson, Central Board of Direct Taxes.



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Column by Devdutt Pattanaik | The horseman of Kanchi


Two sides of the horseman at Varadharaja Perumal temple in Kanchipuram

Two sides of the horseman at Varadharaja Perumal temple in Kanchipuram
| Photo Credit: B. Velankanni Raj

At the Varadharaja Perumal temple in Kanchi (or Kanchipuram), there is an image of a horseman that is rather peculiar. On one side, it appears to be a South Indian Nayaka king, but on the other side it resembles a foreigner wearing trousers and a tunic. A foreign temple guardian, or mercenary, either Portuguese or Turk.

The horsemen were known in Tamil Nadu as Ravuttan (horse riders), a term based on Rajput words such as Rawat and Raut (chieftain). Such guardian images are found in many temples of the Arcot and Mysuru regions. This may have inspired the “horse dance” known as “Poikkaal kuthirai aattam”, as well as terracotta horse image offerings to please folk deities such as Ayyanar.

Carved in the 17th century by Nayaka kings, it reminds us of a time — until the 19th century — when horses were imported in vast numbers to India from Central Asia, Persia and Arabia. The ‘vilayati’ (foreign) Turki horses came by land for northern markets. North Indian kings would not allow horses go south to their rivals below the Vindhya mountains. So the south imported the ‘bahari’ Arabian horses by sea (bah’r means sea in Arabic).

For over 3,000 years, horses were imported into India. They were critical to govern empires and, therefore, were always in demand. But a little known fact is that horses are difficult to breed in our country, which explains the need for annual imports.

Local horse breeding did occur in pockets of Gujarat and Rajasthan about 800 years ago. This was to satisfy the demands of the Delhi sultans, when supply from Central Asia was cut following Mongol invasions. However, the local breeds (such as Tattu) were always considered inferior to the foreign ones (Turki, Tajiki). Kathiawar was one of the few places where foreign breeds could thrive in India.

An import with impact

The Rig Veda contains some of the oldest horse poetry in the world. The horse is mentioned 200 times. It is a reminder that the poets were familiar with this foreign animal that had been imported into the subcontinent from a faraway land. There are no horses in Harappan cities because horses had not been domesticated when these cities thrived.

In the Bronze Age, we do not find horses in Egypt or Mesopotamia or China or the Harappan civilisation of India. However, by the Iron Age, horse-drawn chariots were found everywhere as indicated by artworks in ancient Egypt, ancient Greece and burial sites in China. This is when they entered India and inspired the Vedic hymns.

Genetic evidence now shows that horses were fully domesticated north of the Black Sea in 2000 BC. These were tiny animals that couldn’t be ridden. They could not pull heavy-wheeled wagons either. So, that led to a new invention: a light spoke-wheeled chariot that could carry two men — the charioteer and an archer. This was the greatest military invention of the times, immortalised in the Mahabharata as Krishna and Arjuna (with his Gandiva bow) on the chariot pulled by four horses at Kurukshetra.

Chariot-riding was replaced by horse-riding around 700 BC and became the norm when Alexander, atop a horse, defeated the chariot-riding Persian emperor around 331 BCE. The Indo-Greeks (Yavana), the Saka-Pahalava (Scythian-Parthian), and the Kushan (Yuezhi) controlled the horse-trade from 200 BC to 200 AD. Mauryan kings imported horses and exported elephants. Prince Siddhartha leaves his palace riding a horse, but there is no horse rider in the Mahabharata and the Ramayana indicating that the epics are older stories, though the manuscripts were composed much later.

Story of the stirrup

If one travels to Sanchi and Bharhut, one can see images of men riding horses on Buddhist sites. They do not have saddles or foot stirrups like the ones we find on the Varadaraja Perumal temple horsemen. They have ‘toe-stirrups’. The iron stirrup and wooden saddle were later inventions that came to India with the Turks, after 1000 AD.

Surya, the sun god, was first shown riding a chariot drawn by four horses at Buddhist sites such as Bodh Gaya, inspired by the Greek sun god Helios. While images of Surya with seven horses are based on older Vedic descriptions (1000 BC), that he is shown wearing boots indicates the Kushan influence (200 AD).

Surya’s son, Revanta

Surya’s son, Revanta

Surya’s son, Revanta is always shown as a horse rider, with a dog and hunting boars. His images do not have iron stirrups, indicating they emerged before 1000 AD. Iron stirrups are also seen in the horse riders of Varadharaja Perumal temple. Thus, we find horse art revealing an aspect of foreign influence on Indian history that will rarely make it into textbooks.

Devdutt Pattanaik is the author of 50 books on mythology, art and culture.



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The sound comes first: Why listening rooms and bars are redefining nightlife


In much of Southeast Asia, the idea of a bar is slowly being reshaped. Instead of music competing with chatter or cocktails, listening rooms are inviting people to slow down, sit back and actually hear what is being played.

In Bangkok, the culture is particularly visible. At Siwilai Sound Club in Bang Rak, one floor is reserved for jazz and another for vinyl. Freaking Out the Neighborhood, hidden on Sukhumvit 36, feels more like a friend’s living room than a bar, with albums played whole and a crowd that arrives to listen rather than talk over the music. And then there is Lennon’s, a high-rise bar with a collection of over 6,000 records, where you can browse, request, and settle into a late evening.

The 33-seater Middle Room in Bengaluru is an audiophile’s dream

The 33-seater Middle Room in Bengaluru is an audiophile’s dream
| Photo Credit:
Special arrangement

Hong Kong has had its own version of the movement for years. Potato Head’s hidden Music Room built a reputation with its wood-panelled interiors and collection of thousands of records, while Melody in Sai Ying Pun continues the Japanese listening-bar tradition with carefully designed acoustics and low lighting that places the music first.

The concept of the listening bar traces back to Japan in the 1940s. After Second World War, when the country was reeling from devastation and poverty, the entertainment industry too was in shambles. People would gather in small coffee shops, called kissa, to listen to music played on transistors. What began as an intimate form of communal listening has, over the decades, evolved into a global phenomenon.

The cocktail programme at Baroke doesn’t take away from the superior sound

The cocktail programme at Baroke doesn’t take away from the superior sound
| Photo Credit:
Special arrangement

In India, the listening room remains a young idea. Collectors exist in every major city, but spaces that place music at the heart of the night are still rare.

Put that record on

At The Dimsum Room in Mumbai’s Kala Ghoda, a listening room (1,000 square foot) opened in February this year, tucked within the restaurant. It seats just about 40 people, dim-lit and acoustically treated, with a gently pitched ceiling and huge speakers.

The Listening Room at Dimsum Room

The Listening Room at Dimsum Room
| Photo Credit:
Manan Surti

Mayank Bhatt, founder of All In Hospitality, which runs The Dimsum Room, insists this is not another restaurant with background music. “People often equate listening rooms with vinyl bars, but in many vinyl bars the music becomes an afterthought. What I wanted was a space where the music is part of the reason you came, loud enough to matter, but not so loud that you cannot lean over and chat. A space where vinyl lovers feel at home.”

For Mayank, the choice to dedicate valuable real estate to a listening room was deliberate. “If I were to make it a private dining space, I could be making ₹50–60,000 a night,” he admits. “But I’m committed to keeping this restricted to listening, to vinyl. Food and drink are served, but they’re not the point. They’re just an add-on.” To build the space, he collaborated with Kapil Thirwani, director at Munro Acoustics India and an expert in sound and acoustic design.

The Middle Room team

The Middle Room team
| Photo Credit:
Special arrangement

Just a few miles away, another variation on the theme has appeared at Baroke, inside Krishna Palace Hotel, Nana Chowk on Mumbai’s Grant Road. The hotel itself has long been associated with Mumbai’s nightlife, and Baroke feels like a reinvention of that legacy. Here, the idea is not a hushed listening room but what founder Saurabh Shetty, director at Krishna Palace, calls a listening bar. “The listening room concept ensures people don’t mind sitting in one place with a drink, just listening. That’s a lot to ask of a Mumbai crowd. So we re-christened ourselves a listening bar in July this year, where music is still first, but the bar experience matters too.”

The attention to detail is obsessive. “We actually have a decibel metre on the DJ console,” says Hector Kavarana, marketing and communications lead at Baroke. “The loudest our music goes is 85 decibels. DJs can see it, sometimes even patrons can. It’s our way of ensuring Baroke doesn’t slip into becoming just another loud club.”

At Baroke, the collection spans about 220 vinyls across genres like rock, pop, reggae, disco, and even a little instrumental.

Inside Baroke

Inside Baroke
| Photo Credit:
Special arrangement

For those who want solitude, the bar has headphone stations — where guests can plug in and tune into the vinyl directly, even if there’s chatter nearby. The bar also worked with a sound consultant to install Klipsch La Scala speakers — handcrafted, imported, and rarely found in commercial spaces in South Asia.

Curation is central. The programming handled by a veteran of Mumbai’s vinyl scene, Wilber Texeira, curator of Baroke’s weekend nights, is a renowned DJ and sound designer. “It looks simple enough,” Saurabh notes, “but there’s a lot of music science that goes into even a Tuesday night. And unlike a regular club, we don’t take requests.”

A new concept

In Bengaluru, the mood shifts again at The Middle Room, which opened in July this year. The 33-seater listening room, which has a designated space from the main cocktail bar, operates on time-slot bookings, offering listeners two-hour windows to settle in with music. Inside, wood and red accents set the tone, warmed further by a sleek Technics SL-1200 MK7 turntable from Tokyo and a wall stacked with over 1,000 LPs.

Baroke

Baroke
| Photo Credit:
Special arrangement

For Akhila, the balance is delicate. “We can capitalise on the bar, but it’s very hard to just monetise. What we realised early was that we needed to be clear about what we really wanted to focus on. While we’ve put a lot of attention into the food and drinks, we were very clear from day one that the sonic experience would be at the heart of it.”

To achieve that, they engaged two senior programmers to shape the listening experience, right down to sequencing tracks for each slot. “Bengaluru once had a big, vibrant live music scene that isn’t as visible today. This project leans into that memory, and people have responded warmly. At the same time, we also see guests who come because it’s a new space and they’re curious,” says Akhila.

A night out at Middle Room

A night out at Middle Room
| Photo Credit:
Special arrangement

For Hyderabad-based duo DJ and producer Sri Rama Murthy, who goes by Murthovic, and creative director Avinash Kumar aka Thiruda, who helm a transmedia art project called Elsewhere In India, curating the sound at Middle Room is as much about investing in community as in sound. “We didn’t want just a hi-fi home setup but something immersive, a hybrid between a listening space and a small performance venue,” says Murthovic.

To do that, they brought in a Danley Labs system, designed by former NASA scientist Tom Danley, known for his patented speaker technologies. “We also went to Japan to buy Technics turntables — still the gold standard — and added an all-analogue rotary mixer for warmth and clarity. The room itself was treated like a studio — from the acoustics to the lighting.”

Murthovic and Avinash also see the space as a hub for dialogue and exchange. Alongside gigs, they host talks and workshops in collaboration with local sound researchers and engineers.

New and old listeners

In Goa, the concept is taking a more relaxed shape. For The Record, tucked into the heritage lanes of Panjim, is not strictly a listening room but a vinyl-led café-bar. It is drawing in a younger crowd who are still easing into the culture.

Goa-based photographer Daniel D’souza, who is in his mid-20s and a regular, sees it as something different from the State’s usual nightlife. “The food and cocktail programme is top notch,” he says. “They were playing a Daft Punk vinyl one night, which was great. The music is thought of, and the whole concept is just different from a regular bar.”

For vinyl collectors, the appeal of listening spaces lies less in nostalgia and more in fidelity. Mumbai-based content creator and entrepreneur Aneesh Bhasin, who has built a sizeable vinly collection over the years, believes what matters most is the set-up. “If you’re going to get a cheap turntable and hook it up to a regular Bose speaker system, there’s no point apart from it looking cool. You’re actually better off streaming music,” he says. For Aneesh, who owns a vintage 1978 Luxman amplifier from Japan and a German ELAC speaker system, vinyl is about extracting every layer of sound. “It’s not a cheap hobby. If I’m buying a record at ₹3,000 on average, I want to get the most out of it.”

Still, he admits to a concern about India’s emerging listening culture: “My only reservation is that the owners and promoters are putting in the work, but how many people are actually caring about the sound? I hope that changes, and it doesn’t just become background noise when you’re dining.”

But for all the romance around vinyl and sonic immersion, there is also the hard arithmetic of running such spaces in India. Diganta Chakraborty, Bengaluru-based founder and CEO at Elemental, which operates across three spheres of F&B — own spaces, client solutions, and curated experiences — puts it plainly: “You can’t have it small in Bengaluru. The alcohol licence itself costs a crore. If your total expenditure is ₹2.5–3 crore, you need to make that money back in four or five years, which means the space has to be larger.”

From his perspective, listening rooms are only viable when it is folded into a bigger revenue-generating bar. “You have a cocktail bar that’s making the money, and within it you create a listening room for 30–40 people. The moment it becomes too large, it ceases to be intimate, you’re just listening to what others want you to hear.”



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Design Democracy 2025 brings global luxury and craft to Hyderabad


HITEX Exhibition Centre was abuzz as design enthusiasts flocked to partake in Design Democracy 2025. Held from September 5 to 7, the third edition assembled over 120 luxury brands, 80+ speakers, and curated installations by industry vanguards.

Design Democracy Co-Founders Pallika Sreewastav, Arjun Rathi, and Shailja Patwari.

Design Democracy Co-Founders Pallika Sreewastav, Arjun Rathi, and Shailja Patwari.
| Photo Credit:
Design Democracy

Co-founders Pallika Sreewastav, Shailja Patwari, and Arjun Rathi’s unified vision has captivated an estimated audience of over 15,000 visitors. “Design Democracy is proof that when passion finds purpose, magic happens,” says Sreewastav. Rathi draws upon the city’s mien: “Hyderabad’s energy has always resonated with me. This platform enables us to bring a collaborative vision to a larger community.” While Patwari adds, “To us, it is not just a festival, it’s a statement about where Indian design is headed. As soon as one edition concludes, we set the groundwork for the next.”

Design enthusiasts graced Hyderabad to relish Design Democracy’s third edition.

Design enthusiasts graced Hyderabad to relish Design Democracy’s third edition.
| Photo Credit:
YNotUs

Here are some remarkable finds from the event that celebrated cross-disciplinary showcases traversing furniture, lighting, material innovation, and craft:

Ashni: Bengaluru

Ashni’s creations meld nature-centric inspiration and luxe design sensibilities.

Ashni’s creations meld nature-centric inspiration and luxe design sensibilities.
| Photo Credit:
Ashni

Founder Priti Mehta’s aim in 2014 was simple: to demonstrate that exceptional design and ecological responsibility can coexist — beautifully even. At the design showcase, we witness a moodily lit booth, Ashni’s creations levitating dreamily. Crafted in rich textures of banana fibre, raw silk, handcrafted washi papers, sustainably-sourced bamboo, and reclaimed wood, the luminaires feel sentient.

Priti Mehta 

Priti Mehta 
| Photo Credit:
Ashni

“We chose this palette of materials for their natural textures, inherent translucence, and organic elegance. Pieces like Vyoma, Amara Bliss, Midori, and Aurea are inspired by floral life forms, in various stages, some blooming and some modest, bud-like,” says Mehta.

Banana fibre, washi paper, and raw silk form Ashni’s core arsenal of materials.

Banana fibre, washi paper, and raw silk form Ashni’s core arsenal of materials.
| Photo Credit:
Ashni

Her team champions ethical craftsmanship, offering handmade pieces by skilled artisans from the country’s remote regions. Mehta’s impetus transforms lighting into personal, poetic experiences that illuminate spaces.

From ₹4,500 onwards

Jamun Tree: Kolkata

Jamun Tree’s curation mirrors a trail through eras and cultures.

Jamun Tree’s curation mirrors a trail through eras and cultures.
| Photo Credit:
Team Jamun Tree

The collecting practice at Jamun Tree, which began in 2018, dwells at the intersection of heirloom memory, soul, and lore. They stir this cauldron of inspiration at Design Democracy’s showcase — their booth creating an immersive journey akin to stepping through time itself: ornate mirrors, artisanal crosses, carved busts, and credenzas in tow. An eclectic curation of colonial-era furniture and objects of interest pepper the display, conceived by co-founders Sweta and Anurag Tewari, narrating stories that paint scenes of an era bygone.

Sweta Tewari.

Sweta Tewari.
| Photo Credit:
Team Jamun Tree

“Jamun Tree was founded by the second generation of dealers within our family, marking an entry into the retail landscape after being synonymous with antiquing for numerous decades,” shares Sweta. The collection brings pieces of British, Dutch, and Portuguese origin under one roof, alongside notable Hindu and Islamic descent pieces that reflect the homeland’s rich tapestry of heritage.

Jamun Tree’s curation mirrors a trail through eras and cultures.

Jamun Tree’s curation mirrors a trail through eras and cultures.
| Photo Credit:
Team Jamun Tree

From ₹30,000 onwards

Itihaus: Hyderabad

A vividly detailed Vishnu sculpture from Ithaus’ curation.

A vividly detailed Vishnu sculpture from Ithaus’ curation.
| Photo Credit:
Clique Studio

Suman Kakumani’s endeavour’s name is a blend of the Hindi word ‘Itihaas’, which translates to ‘history’, and the German word ‘Haus’, meaning ‘home’. Initiated in 2024, Kakumani’s collective focuses on curating unique offerings that commemorate India’s heritage and craft.

Weaving the worlds of Indian lore, mythology, and artisanship, the curator’s vision features the works of Priyanka Aelay, Bhaskar Rao, Kandi Narsimlu, and other artists, alongside sculptural offerings that employ novel mother-of-pearl and straw inlay techniques.

Suman Kakumani.

Suman Kakumani.
| Photo Credit:
Clique Studio

“We hope that our patrons find pieces that can become objects of legacy and history within their homes. Art and collectibles bear the ability to speak with us when they truly belong in our spaces,” Kakumani expresses.

From ₹72,000 onwards

Taro Collective: Bengaluru and Milan

An assortment of products from the Kadam Collection.

An assortment of products from the Kadam Collection.
| Photo Credit:
Soup by Falka

A creative calling’s wellspring transcends borders — Bengaluru and Milan-based Taro Collective is proof. Co-founded in 2022 by Shikha Rentala, Marco Grimandi, and Federico Fraternale, the studio balances environmental interaction while harmonising Italian aesthetics and Indian production. Their Kadam Collection comprises chairs, consoles, storage units, and a bookshelf, all rooted in nomadic exploration — a fitting representation of the trio’s ethos. “Kadam is a foldable, easy-to-move collection that is painstakingly engineered and light in construction,” says Grimandi. Rentala adds, “The collection reflects who we are based on humans’ intrinsic need for change and an existence laced with variety.”

Marco Grimandi, Shikha Rentala, and Federico Fraternale.

Marco Grimandi, Shikha Rentala, and Federico Fraternale.
| Photo Credit:
Casa Carigar

Fraternale illuminates the inspiration driving the collection’s genesis: the iconic Tripolina chair. “Oak and stainless steel form the core materials. Things around us appear to have a stationary existence every few feet. We dream up elements that feel alive in one’s space,” he notes.

An assortment of products from the Kadam Collection.

An assortment of products from the Kadam Collection.
| Photo Credit:
Soup by Falka

From ₹30,000 onwards

Tabula Rasa: Kolkata

The Terra Credenza by Tabula Rasa.

The Terra Credenza by Tabula Rasa.
| Photo Credit:
Kamakshi Pasari

Founder Nithika Agarwal’s vision manifests as sculptural creations where structure emulates story. With its beginnings dating back to 2015, Nithika, alongside her daughter Annanya Agarwal, has celebrated honest materiality and hand-finished surfaces and forms that feel primal yet precise. Their capsule this edition melds rhythm, ritual, and resilience articulated as monoliths, tiered geometry, and inlay craft. Tabula Rasa’s core materiality has a palette of natural stones, brass, and mahogany hardwood that creates keystone objects. 

Nithika Agarwal 

Nithika Agarwal 
| Photo Credit:
Tabula Rasa

Annanya Agarwal

Annanya Agarwal
| Photo Credit:
Tabula Rasa

“They are sculptural enough to pose as conversation-starters and extremely functional, making them a joy to live with! “We draw from Indian craft lineage and architectural rhythm, and the result is timeless pieces that feel like they belong in any ambience,” says Nithika.

From ₹85,000 onwards

Takshni Art Collective: New Delhi

Language and art find common ground in Takshni’s Muladhaar Collection.

Language and art find common ground in Takshni’s Muladhaar Collection.
| Photo Credit:
Takshni Art Collective

Richa Uppal’s labour of love, Takshni Art Collective opened its doors in 2019, creating a design platform that explores craft, culture, and community. Uppal’s efforts focus on the preservation of traditional knowledge, imagined through the lens of slow-making processes, regional crafts, and thoughtful materiality. 

Takshni’s offerings explore the intersection between artisanal prowess, storytelling, and rooted materiality.

Takshni’s offerings explore the intersection between artisanal prowess, storytelling, and rooted materiality.
| Photo Credit:
Takshni Art Collective

With their latest collection, Muladhaar, the team explores languages as living archives of civilisations. Uppal says, “When a language fades, an entire philosophy is lost. The installations curated as a part of Muladhaar highlight these languages as vibrant forces that shape human connection.”

Richa Uppal

Richa Uppal
| Photo Credit:
Takshni Art Collective

Uppal’s work thrives on collaborative pulses, its reach uniting artisans, performers, and designers to create spaces where memory and material breathe in unison.

From ₹24,000 onwards

The writer is an architect and design specialist. 



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This limoncello locally produced in India, bursts with gondhoraj lebu


In 2018, when Lolita Sarkar, founder and chief alchemist of Unusual Spirits, Goa, moved to the beach capital of India, she started hosting suppers for friends and making jams. It was during the pandemic that her experiments with spirited concoctions introduced her to the liqueur space serendipitously.

Lolita Sarkar

Lolita Sarkar
| Photo Credit:
Special arrangement

Five years on, talking about the journey of Limoncello 24 — India’s first ever locally produced limoncello (a lemon-based liqueur traditionally made with Italian lemons in small batches across southern Italy) — she says, “In 2020, when I was making pickles and squashes at home, I wondered why we didn’t have any liqueurs made of local fruit, when we have such an abundance of it. Confessing her love for travelling and Italy as one of her favourite destinations, she recalls enjoying the little shots of limoncello served after meals at small establishments. “Through 2020-2021, I made over 12 batches of limoncello, using Assam limes, imported Italian lemons, and a host of other such citrus fruits, but fell in love with the one we made with gondhoraj lebu. The flavour and the oils from its zest give this limoncello a distinct flavour profile.”

Limoncello 24 owes its moniker to 24 Parganas — formerly the largest district of West Bengal at the time of bifurcation — where gondhoraj lebu grows in abundance

Limoncello 24 owes its moniker to 24 Parganas — formerly the largest district of West Bengal at the time of bifurcation — where gondhoraj lebu grows in abundance
| Photo Credit:
Special arrangement

Tart and fresh, Limoncello 24 instantly transports you to the coasts — not to Amalfi in Italy but to the Bay of Bengal and Goa. It owes its moniker to 24 Parganas — formerly known as the largest district of West Bengal at the time of bifurcation —  where gondhoraj lebu (a hybrid citrus, neither a true lemon nor lime) grows in abundance. Typically larger than other lemons, the gondhoraj lebu has a crumpled skin, thick pith, green hue and is notoriously stingy with its juice.

Lolita Sarkar pouring a Limoncelllo 24 cocktail

Lolita Sarkar pouring a Limoncelllo 24 cocktail
| Photo Credit:
Special arrangement

From picking to packaging, the entire process has a turnaround of just three days. “We use around 200 kilograms of produce per batch. Once we receive the limes in Goa, we have a team of women that zest them by hand. The zest meets a grain-based ENA (extra neutral spirit) and very little added sugar. In Italy, they use grappa as a base spirit (made from remnants of grapes after juicing) but sourcing that in India is not practical,” explains Lolita, who is also a filmmaker and former restauranteur (two locations of Desi Delhi in Mumbai, which closed down during the pandemic).

From picking to packaging, the entire process has a turnaround of just three days

From picking to packaging, the entire process has a turnaround of just three days
| Photo Credit:
Special arrangement

The liqueur, though made in small batches, is available through the year. Unusual Spirits has roped in small farms from Bengal, for a consistent supply of gondhoraj lebu. From the pickers in 24 Paraganas to the all women team of peelers in Goa, Limoncello 24 is handcrafted, retaining the freshness of the lemon zest, with zero additives, preservatives, and no artificial flavouring or colouring. While most liqueurs are cloyingly sweet, this one has only 200 grams of sugar per litre compared to 250 grams, usually found across markets. “We lab test our batches for consistency, but you will find slight changes in the shade of the spirit, due to the produce, and there’s a beauty in those natural fluctuations,” states Lolita.  

Lolita is celebrating Mahabaleshwar’s luscious strawberries with Fragoncello ‘412 (Fragola is the Italian word for strawberry)

Lolita is celebrating Mahabaleshwar’s luscious strawberries with Fragoncello ‘412 (Fragola is the Italian word for strawberry)
| Photo Credit:
Special arrangement

Next, Lolita is celebrating Mahabaleshwar’s luscious strawberries with Fragoncello ‘412 (Fragola is the Italian word for strawberry and 412 comes from the first three digits of Mahabaleshwar’s PIN code). About the delicate liqueur — with its rich aroma, deep scarlet hue and tart-sweet flavour (150 grams of sugar per litre) — Lolita says, “It is distilled in small batches and is only available between November and February due to the seasonality of the produce”. Fragoncello ‘412 offers versatility. It can be sipped on ice, used in cocktails and desserts like cakes or sorbets.

Fragoncello ‘412 can be sipped on ice, used in cocktails and desserts like cakes or sorbets

Fragoncello ‘412 can be sipped on ice, used in cocktails and desserts like cakes or sorbets
| Photo Credit:
Special arrangement

Unusual Spirits has three more liqueurs in the works for 2025-2026, with a launch slated for late September in Goa. “One is herbaceous and layered with Indian spices, the other is an annual drop made from Indian fruit. The third one is especially exciting, since it will be the first of its kind in the country,” says Lolita, who is tight-lipped about its details.

Fragoncello ‘412

Fragoncello ‘412
| Photo Credit:
Special arrangement

She is buoyant about the prospects of locally produced liqueurs. “Using Indian fruit adds a deeper flavour to cocktails and helps the bottomline at the bar, since Indian-made liqueur is cost effective.”

Both spirits, with 25% ABV, are available in Goa. While Limoncello 24 is priced at ₹1,320 for 550ml, the same quantity of Fragoncello ‘412 costs ₹1,540.  

Published – September 19, 2025 04:35 pm IST



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This limoncello locally produced in India, bursts with gondhoraj lebu


In 2018, when Lolita Sarkar, founder and chief alchemist of Unusual Spirits, Goa, moved to the beach capital of India, she started hosting suppers for friends and making jams. It was during the pandemic that her experiments with spirited concoctions introduced her to the liqueur space serendipitously.

Lolita Sarkar

Lolita Sarkar
| Photo Credit:
Special arrangement

Five years on, talking about the journey of Limoncello 24 — India’s first ever locally produced limoncello (a lemon-based liqueur traditionally made with Italian lemons in small batches across southern Italy) — she says, “In 2020, when I was making pickles and squashes at home, I wondered why we didn’t have any liqueurs made of local fruit, when we have such an abundance of it. Confessing her love for travelling and Italy as one of her favourite destinations, she recalls enjoying the little shots of limoncello served after meals at small establishments. “Through 2020-2021, I made over 12 batches of limoncello, using Assam limes, imported Italian lemons, and a host of other such citrus fruits, but fell in love with the one we made with gondhoraj lebu. The flavour and the oils from its zest give this limoncello a distinct flavour profile.”

Limoncello 24 owes its moniker to 24 Parganas — formerly the largest district of West Bengal at the time of bifurcation — where gondhoraj lebu grows in abundance

Limoncello 24 owes its moniker to 24 Parganas — formerly the largest district of West Bengal at the time of bifurcation — where gondhoraj lebu grows in abundance
| Photo Credit:
Special arrangement

Tart and fresh, Limoncello 24 instantly transports you to the coasts — not to Amalfi in Italy but to the Bay of Bengal and Goa. It owes its moniker to 24 Parganas — formerly known as the largest district of West Bengal at the time of bifurcation —  where gondhoraj lebu (a hybrid citrus, neither a true lemon nor lime) grows in abundance. Typically larger than other lemons, the gondhoraj lebu has a crumpled skin, thick pith, green hue and is notoriously stingy with its juice.

Lolita Sarkar pouring a Limoncelllo 24 cocktail

Lolita Sarkar pouring a Limoncelllo 24 cocktail
| Photo Credit:
Special arrangement

From picking to packaging, the entire process has a turnaround of just three days. “We use around 200 kilograms of produce per batch. Once we receive the limes in Goa, we have a team of women that zest them by hand. The zest meets a grain-based ENA (extra neutral spirit) and very little added sugar. In Italy, they use grappa as a base spirit (made from remnants of grapes after juicing) but sourcing that in India is not practical,” explains Lolita, who is also a filmmaker and former restauranteur (two locations of Desi Delhi in Mumbai, which closed down during the pandemic).

From picking to packaging, the entire process has a turnaround of just three days

From picking to packaging, the entire process has a turnaround of just three days
| Photo Credit:
Special arrangement

The liqueur, though made in small batches, is available through the year. Unusual Spirits has roped in small farms from Bengal, for a consistent supply of gondhoraj lebu. From the pickers in 24 Paraganas to the all women team of peelers in Goa, Limoncello 24 is handcrafted, retaining the freshness of the lemon zest, with zero additives, preservatives, and no artificial flavouring or colouring. While most liqueurs are cloyingly sweet, this one has only 200 grams of sugar per litre compared to 250 grams, usually found across markets. “We lab test our batches for consistency, but you will find slight changes in the shade of the spirit, due to the produce, and there’s a beauty in those natural fluctuations,” states Lolita.  

Lolita is celebrating Mahabaleshwar’s luscious strawberries with Fragoncello ‘412 (Fragola is the Italian word for strawberry)

Lolita is celebrating Mahabaleshwar’s luscious strawberries with Fragoncello ‘412 (Fragola is the Italian word for strawberry)
| Photo Credit:
Special arrangement

Next, Lolita is celebrating Mahabaleshwar’s luscious strawberries with Fragoncello ‘412 (Fragola is the Italian word for strawberry and 412 comes from the first three digits of Mahabaleshwar’s PIN code). About the delicate liqueur — with its rich aroma, deep scarlet hue and tart-sweet flavour (150 grams of sugar per litre) — Lolita says, “It is distilled in small batches and is only available between November and February due to the seasonality of the produce”. Fragoncello ‘412 offers versatility. It can be sipped on ice, used in cocktails and desserts like cakes or sorbets.

Fragoncello ‘412 can be sipped on ice, used in cocktails and desserts like cakes or sorbets

Fragoncello ‘412 can be sipped on ice, used in cocktails and desserts like cakes or sorbets
| Photo Credit:
Special arrangement

Unusual Spirits has three more liqueurs in the works for 2025-2026, with a launch slated for late September in Goa. “One is herbaceous and layered with Indian spices, the other is an annual drop made from Indian fruit. The third one is especially exciting, since it will be the first of its kind in the country,” says Lolita, who is tight-lipped about its details.

Fragoncello ‘412

Fragoncello ‘412
| Photo Credit:
Special arrangement

She is buoyant about the prospects of locally produced liqueurs. “Using Indian fruit adds a deeper flavour to cocktails and helps the bottomline at the bar, since Indian-made liqueur is cost effective.”

Both spirits, with 25% ABV, are available in Goa. While Limoncello 24 is priced at ₹1,320 for 550ml, the same quantity of Fragoncello ‘412 costs ₹1,540.  

Published – September 19, 2025 04:35 pm IST



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Women homebuyers: the new power segment


For decades, homebuying in India was seen primarily as a male-driven decision, influenced by cultural traditions and financial patterns of the time. Today, that picture is changing rapidly. A combination of economic independence, access to education, and shifting societal attitudes has created a new demographic force in the housing market: women homebuyers. This is not a small ripple but a wave that is beginning to redefine demand and reshape the way developers think about design, safety, and long-term value.

What is driving this shift is both practical and aspirational. On the practical side, more women are entering the workforce and many are choosing to stay in it longer, which means their earning power has gone up. Banks and financial institutions are also giving a little extra push by offering lower interest rates or special schemes for women homebuyers, and that has made ownership more within reach. On the aspirational side, women are beginning to see homes not just as a place to live but also as a source of security, independence and even as something they can pass on as wealth to the next generation. Put together, all these factors have created a visible rise in participation.

In 2024, for instance, residential transactions by women grew about 14% year-on-year, crossing nearly 1.29 lakh registrations. Their share in overall registrations in large cities is now close to 22%. Between 2020 and 2023, surveys also showed a 16% rise in women homebuyers on property platforms, especially in cities such as Chennai, Thane and Bengaluru, where the share of female homebuyers is among the highest. The real meaning of this shift is not only in the numbers but also in the mindset it reflects. Women are approaching homeownership with a sharper sense of purpose. They look at projects for safety, for day-to-day practicality and for how useful they will be in the long run. Layouts that keep common spaces well-lit, amenities that are genuinely thoughtful, and designs that are functional are now seen as essentials. Technology has also made the process far less intimidating. Women buyers today are using online research, virtual tours and even digital consultations to get more clarity before making a decision. That confidence is encouraging them to take the final call independently and with a lot more conviction.

Across tier II, III cities

While the rise of women buyers is most visible in metros, an equally important growth story is unfolding in India’s tier II and tier III cities. Over the past two years, housing sales in these markets have grown steadily, with several cities recording double-digit absorption. In fact, 44% of new land acquisitions by developers last year were in tier II locations. Sales volumes may have dipped slightly in early 2025, but the value of transactions actually increased by 6%, indicating a clear shift towards higher-quality homes. Over the past five years, launch prices in many of these markets have increased sharply, in some cases by as much as 90%.

The momentum in these emerging markets is being fuelled by a mix of affordability, improving infrastructure, and rising lifestyle aspirations. Stronger road networks, new regional airports, and government initiatives such as the Smart Cities Mission and PMAY have laid the groundwork for more structured growth. This has not gone unnoticed by investors, who now see real potential in smaller cities.

Policy frameworks

Beyond shifting mindsets, policy support has also played a role in encouraging women to step forward as homeowners. Concessions in stamp duty across many states have reduced the upfront cost of purchase, making ownership more accessible. Banks, too, are extending preferential lending terms to women, often offering slightly lower interest rates and easier eligibility norms. Over time, these small but steady advantages add up and give women the confidence to view property not only as a home but as a strong, long-term investment.

What stands out about women buyers is that their decisions often extend beyond themselves. They think in terms of community, family, and safety. This perspective is influencing the kinds of projects that succeed in the market. Developments that combine affordability with aspirational amenities, or that blend modernity with cultural familiarity, tend to resonate strongly. Certifications such as IGBC or GRIHA also matter more, not only for environmental consciousness but because they assure lower maintenance costs and healthier living conditions.

At the same time, women buyers tend to evaluate homes with clear priorities, which include safety, functionality, and quality. They do this while keeping an eye on long-term security and family well-being. Projects that balance these expectations with transparent processes are naturally gaining more traction.

The growing presence of women homebuyers mirrors the story of India itself: modern, ambitious, and confident about the future. The next phase of real estate is not about building more houses, but about creating homes and neighbourhoods that embody the aspirations, values, and influence of the people who will live in them.

The writer is director of Manglam Group.

Published – September 19, 2025 04:29 pm IST



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GST reforms reshape construction – The Hindu


The recent GST reforms from the 56th Council meeting mark a watershed moment for the Indian construction industry, which has long struggled with complex tax structures and rising material costs. Prima facie, these reforms, effective as of September 22, offer significant potential for growth. However, their success will depend on how effectively we implement them and how transparently the benefits are distributed throughout the supply chain.

The consolidation of GST rate slabs from four to two represents perhaps the most significant administrative breakthrough since its inception. For construction companies operating across multiple states, the reduction from complex rate structures to primarily 5% and 18% rates will dramatically reduce compliance burdens. This streamlining addresses a longstanding pain point for contractors, who often need to navigate the intricacies between 12% and 28% rate categories. It frequently leads to classification disputes and delayed project approvals.

Faster refunds

The introduction of pre-filled GST returns and faster refund processing mechanisms promises to resolve the cumbersome challenge of cash flow management. Construction projects are particularly vulnerable to delayed refunds, with their extended timelines and significant upfront investments. If implemented effectively, these measures could free up substantial working capital that has remained stuck in the tax system.

Cement, granite and tile update

The reduction in GST on cement from 28% to 18% will significantly impact project economics. With cement typically comprising 15%-20% of total construction costs, this reduction translates to meaningful savings. Industry estimates suggest that overall construction cost reductions of 3%-5% will occur once the entire supply chain adjusts, resulting in a substantial impact on project viability and competitiveness.

Similarly, the reduction in GST on marble and granite blocks from 12% to 5% will particularly benefit the finishing and luxury segments, especially for projects targeting the upper-middle-class market.

Consistent pricing

One of the most welcome developments is the alignment of GST rates between government and private construction contracts. Historically, differential tax treatments created market distortions and competitive imbalances, often hampering collaboration between public and private stakeholders. This rationalisation now enables contractors to approach both segments with similar cost structures, fostering more consistent pricing strategies, competitive bidding, and ultimately, better project outcomes — particularly in large-scale infrastructure development.

Bringing affordable back?

The impact of GST 2.0 on affordable and mid-income housing segments cannot be overstated. The continued concessional rate of 1% for affordable housing, combined with reduced input costs, creates a powerful momentum for this segment. With housing demand remaining robust, particularly in tier-2 and tier-3 cities, these reforms could accelerate project launches that were previously on hold due to margin pressures.

The construction industry is India’s second-largest employment generator, and this boost to affordable housing could play a key role in creating jobs, supporting the goal of 100 million jobs by 2030.

Main challenges

Despite the positive framework, several challenges demand attention. First, the pace of benefits will depend on how quickly the supply chain adjusts its pricing. While manufacturers may respond faster, the fragmented nature of the chain means it could take months for the impact to fully percolate.

Second, the industry’s limited culture of transparency could limit the reforms’ effectiveness. Unless competitive pressures and client demands force genuine cost pass-through, these benefits risk being absorbed as increased margins rather than translated into lower project costs.

Third, the ongoing inflationary pressures in labour costs over the past year continue to offset material cost benefits. While GST reforms address one component of cost inflation, the broader challenge of skilled labour shortage and rising wages remains unaddressed.

For commercial construction, the standard 18% rate provides clarity and predictability, but projects that previously benefited from 12% rates will face increased costs. The net impact will vary by project type and procurement strategy. Large-scale infrastructure projects may see improved cash flows from faster refunds, but the rate normalisation could increase overall tax costs. The reforms’ timing is particularly relevant given the government’s continued focus on infrastructure developments and robust spending pipeline.

Immediate strategies

More than policy announcements, the success of these reforms will be measured in ground-level implementation. The construction industry must proactively adapt by updating procurement strategies, renegotiating supply agreements, reviewing ongoing contracts, and ensuring that the existing technology systems can manage the new rate structures. Along with this, introducing change-in-tax clauses in future agreements will also be vital for risk management.

The entire construction sector has been dwindling with longstanding structural issues. These reforms mark a significant step towards a more cost-effective and transparent system. But their true impact will depend on industry-wide commitment to healthy competition and genuine accountability.

Industry leaders have a responsibility to ensure that these benefits reach end consumers and contribute to broader economic growth. The industry has the opportunity to emerge as a more professional, efficient, and growth-oriented one, but only if everyone commits to making the most of this historic opportunity.

Asset of choice
Stock, real estate, and gold remain the top asset choices in India, according to the Mercedes-Benz Hurun India Luxury Consumer Survey 2025 released on September 18. The survey was conducted among 150 Indian millionaires, with 51% of the respondents expecting Indian real estate to grow in the next two years.

The writer is managing director, Krishna Buildestates Pvt. Ltd.

Published – September 19, 2025 04:21 pm IST



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Ritu Dalmia brings the dishes from her Indian restaurant in Italy to her Italian restaurant in New Delhi 


A feast of a conversation, garnished with lucid declarations about fusion food, sparks one’s appetite for chef and entrepreneur Ritu Dalmia’s upcoming four-day pop-up menu in Delhi. She is bringing some of the choicest dishes from her Milan-based Indian restaurant Cittamani to her Italian restaurant Diva on September 18. The exclusive menu is as much a celebration of 25 years of Diva as it is of Ritu’s expansive culinary journey.

The exclusive menu is as much a celebration of 25 years of Diva

The exclusive menu is as much a celebration of 25 years of Diva
| Photo Credit:
Special arrangement

Cittamani pop-up will be presented in a thali format — an Ayurvedic approach to eating that continues to be practised in Indian households today. The starters include club kachori, burrata with tomato and kairi launji, and basera me sayala, a Sindhi-style fish. For the main course, expect lamb chops served with adraki gravy; shyam savera featuring torai and apricot kofta with lehsuni palak and tamatar kaju; and Kayasth-style chicken pasande in badami sauce. Punctuated by a sweet ending, the fourth course has two desserts, baked boondi with rabdi and bhapa doi paired with berries.

Bhapa doi, berries

Bhapa doi, berries
| Photo Credit:
Special arrangement

To a naïve mind, this interactive culinary dialogue between India and Italy, East and West, national and international, is suggestive of an exchange or a fusion of sorts. But Ritu quells all queries with a terse reply that tickles one’s curiosity about the dishes on this special menu. She says, “I am actually quite a purist. Also, the word fusion has been misused. So, kachori with burrata is not fusion, for me, because I am not messing around with the taste and the flavour. I am just substituting some ingredients. Some people have done an amazing job with fusion food, but I am not that person. So, apart from a few jugalbandis between L Subramaniam and Stéphane Grappelli, I stick to purity, when it comes to cuisine and music.”

Ritu claims that a simplistic, community-driven approach towards Indian food sets her restaurant, Cittamani, apart from the rest

Ritu claims that a simplistic, community-driven approach towards Indian food sets her restaurant, Cittamani, apart from the rest
| Photo Credit:
Special arrangement

Ritu claims that a simplistic, community-driven approach towards Indian food sets her restaurant, Cittamani, apart from the rest. “Cittamani’s food is all about community meals. It’s all about home food. When we opened in Italy, people thought Indian food was all about butter chicken and dal. Italians go out to eat their home food. So, my idea of Cittamani was really to show how home cooking is done in many different parts of India; no frills, nothing fancy, just honest food — whether it’s my Marwari home-cooked food or Kayasth menu,” she says.

Cittamani in Italy

Cittamani in Italy
| Photo Credit:
Special arrangement

Ritu’s cooking prowess pivots on using traditional recipes with local ingredients. She elaborates her technique with examples of several dishes at her Italian restaurant, like a chaat made with Jerusalem artichoke. “This is basically a lauki chaat which my grandmother used to make, and it was the only way she could get us to have vegetables like lauki. So, instead of importing lauki there, we substitute it with Jerusalem artichoke,” she explains.

Celeriac chaat

Celeriac chaat
| Photo Credit:
Special arrangement

Another interesting dish that also figures on the pop-up menu is shyam savera. “During puja time in Kolkata, one made vegetarian food without onion and garlic. So, shyam savera was always a favourite. It is a lauki kofta dish and is called shyam savera because of the white and orange gravy reflective of morning and evening,” adds Ritu.

Lamb chops, adraki gravy

Lamb chops, adraki gravy
| Photo Credit:
Special arrangement

The selection of dishes on this menu stands dictated by Ritu’s personal favourites at Cittamani. The silver jubilee celebrations of Diva, of course, will continue with more pop-ups (including the one with Michelin-starred chef Viviana Varese, who has partnered with Cittamani), menu revivals (Diva’s menu from 2005-2012) and the launch of a new menu early October.

Cittamani menu will be available from September 18 to 21, 12.30pm to 11.30pm, at Diva, M-8A, M Block Market, Greater Kailash II, New Delhi. A meal for two is priced upwards of ₹2,900. For reservations, call 011-41637858, +917827934131

Published – September 19, 2025 03:08 pm IST



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A peek into Hyderabad’s coffeehouse chess culture


It is a rainy morning with grey light flooding in from the windows of the ‘Swedish restaurant’ in IKEA Hyderabad. I’m here on a Sunday after spotting a post on my Instagram feed announcing a chess tournament. In IKEA? I am curious. A portion of my misspent childhood had been allotted to playing the royal game and I wonder, as the Americans say whether “I still got it”.

I find the tournament players at one end. Even before the event has begun, some have started playing impromptu. The organiser looks frazzled — nearly 50 players have turned up, and there are more participants than the number of boards.

A fun game of chess at IKEA

A fun game of chess at IKEA

| Photo Credit:
Nagara Gopal

I look around, the crowd is mostly 20 and 30 somethings, and look like young professionals. I register my name, and am added to a WhatsApp group, where the pairings or who will play whom will be announced. There are post-it notes stuck on the tables, numbering them and imposing an order on these 64 squares. For clocks we use apps on our phones, with about 10 minutes to each player to complete the game.

As I soon find out, with names like Pawns Gambit, Tribe 64, and Chess Musketeers, virtual chess clubs which use social media to advertise meetups and tournaments are all the rage. These tournaments usually last a few hours and are held in upmarket coffeeshops. In fact, some of the participants will be rushing after the event concludes, to another one in Bagh Beans café.

Chess and coffee shops go all the way back, a link in a chain that stretches back across millennia to the chaikhanas on the Silk Route. Where chess is played is where people meet up and ideas are exchanged. And indeed ‘coffeehouse chess’ has entered the lexicon, for it is the gully cricket of the game, far removed from the Test match-like solemnity of classical chess. Instead of cover drives, there would be barbarous attacks on the king, a lack of strategic foresight, all so that the pieces and pawns can fly in all directions. And the proliferation of cafes in Hyderabad is showing no signs of stopping.

My opponent is a techie who has won office tournaments. He essays the Sicilian Defence and we are soon plunged into battle. Posters extolling Swedish crayfish adorn the walls, while overhead light from the lamps fight the gloom of the morning.

Chess enthusiasts compete in a friendly tournament at Bagh Beans Coffee and Art

Chess enthusiasts compete in a friendly tournament at Bagh Beans Coffee and Art
| Photo Credit:
Siddhant Thakur

As we play, on the next board, one player has lost but asks, “saradaga unkoti aaduthama?” (Let’s play another for fun?) and they cheerfully set up the pieces and are off again.

Between rounds, we grab our complementary coffees and wander around. I meet Salil Kumar, 28, originally from Bihar, who now helps design jet engines for an aerospace company here. “You could have sat at home, what is your motivation?”, I ask. “It’s the long weekend. The past two days I’ve been a couch potato, so I thought I’ll come out and meet my community,” he says. But why chess? “It is like an addiction, but a good addiction,” he says with a laugh, adding that he took up the game post-lockdown to give his brain some “exercise”: “I switched from Reels to chess” he says.

Our conversation is interrupted by dozens of WhatsApp notifications pinging; the pairings are out and everyone rushes to their table. I play with Siddharth G, a bespectacled 18-year-old, doing his B.tech. Siddharth has got a walkover in the previous round, so was yet to push a pawn in anger. Afterwards, “It was my first game, and I was anxious at the start” he admits.

Online or offline, I ask? “Offline” he says, “chess.com is the lazy way”. Offline, there is a feedback, as you observe people’s reactions, the psychology behind the game comes out”.

The chess session at Bagh Beans Coffee and Art witnessed participants in different age groups

The chess session at Bagh Beans Coffee and Art witnessed participants in different age groups
| Photo Credit:
Siddhant Thakur

As the tournament progresses, I am able to make some broad observations; most of the players are those who took up online chess during the lockdown. Now, half a decade in, they have wearied of the impersonal phantom zone of the net and are keen to pit their wits in the real world.

For some like Vishal K, 28, a data analyst, it is to avoid cheating. He plays a variant called bullet chess online, a kind of frenzied T20, where players have only 1 or 2 minutes per game. Why I ask, “ It is difficult to play classical online because people are using bots”.

Still, the real world has its own quirks.

The organiser has to contend with a dispute where a bishop of one colour has defected to another like a politician after elections. Of course, these are impossible online, as illegal moves cannot be inputted. And neither is there the measured hush of a tournament hall, where every sonic transgression is shushed instantly.

At one point, a family tries to open the emergency exit and trigger a piercing alarm. They walk away nonchalantly, leaving behind a deafening din till a security guard comes along. The muzak wafts over the low rumble of customers chatting, counterpointed by a kid shrieking for his mother to get him a pastry. Still, a participant says: “I like the white noise he says, “In a tournament hall, when it is quiet my mind goes in a 1,000 different directions. But when people are talking, I am able to focus”

A young participant at Bagh Beans Coffee and Art

A young participant at Bagh Beans Coffee and Art
| Photo Credit:
Siddhant Thakur

After the tournament I catch up with the organiser, Sairam Kolaganti, 25. “I didn’t have friends to play with” he says. He was tired of playing faceless opponents and wanted a place to play, and people to play with.

Sairam had some chess experience, playing tournaments as a kid. He would often make friends at these tournaments, and after the official game was over, they would just play for fun for a couple of hours, like musicians jamming after a concert. “We had fun” he says, “friendly games played with good spirit”. It is that chapter from his childhood that he wishes to replicate.

What is in it for the cafes? “All we want is a place to play,” Sairam explains, “We go to all the new cafes who are looking for a crowd.”

Sarita Sarkar, co-owner of Bagh Beans, says she organises regular chess events, and has also won championships as a child in West Bengal. “My mother taught me, and said chess is a game that can teach you about life. As a child, I liked pawns, because they were small but powerful.” When she was approached to organise events at the cafe, Sarita jumped at the idea. “I already had wooden boards set up for casual games. To be frank, we don’t do much business as chess attracts students who don’t have a lot of spending power. But I still host events because I like to see them use their brains and not their phones.”

Chess enthusiasts gather at cafes over the weekends for friendly tournaments

Chess enthusiasts gather at cafes over the weekends for friendly tournaments
| Photo Credit:
Nagara Gopal

I talk to the winner, Rahim Lakhani, 35, a businessman who also has a coaching academy. In tournaments, he explains “I always play by the book.. I take a minimum of six months to learn and prepare theory”.  Here, however, he can play casually, for the sheer joy of the game.

The prizes are distributed and people drift away. A few still keep playing hunched over the tables. Perhaps this is the beginning of the rebellion against brainrot, against doomscrolling the days away. Chess, after all, represents the ultimate triumph of mind over matter.



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