Kozhikode beach feels quieter these days. The sea has pulled itself almost a kilometre away from the shore, and so have the blue carts that once dotted the beach. For years, those small stalls were part of the beach’s rhythm. They sold ice orathi, shaved ice soaked in sweet and spicy syrup, and jars filled with bright pickled mangoes, pineapples, and carrots. Now, they sit neatly arranged on the upper pavement, inside what the Kozhikode Corporation calls a “model food street.”
October 15 was the last day those carts served customers on the sand. The Kozhikode Corporation relocated 90 vendors as part of its effort to improve cleanliness and ensure food safety. Each stall now has a number, a uniform design, and financial backing from Kerala Gramin Bank. The shops were inaugurated on October 20. The initiative, led by the National Urban Livelihood Mission and the Department of Food Safety, aims to create a cleaner, better regulated vending space.
Officials call it a progressive step. For many in Kozhikode, it feels more like an emotional shift.
“The whole life of Calicut beach is in those stalls. That’s what made our beach different from others,” says Arathi EA, a Kozhikode native now living in Mumbai.
For those who have grown up by the sea, the memory of the beach is tied to the blue carts. The smell of vinegar rising from open jars mixed with the salty air, the sound of ice being crushed, and the taste of syrup dripping down your fingers were part of what made the place special. Families stood around, chatting over snacks. Photographers crouched low to capture the glow of the pickled fruits against the setting sun. It was never just about food; it was about belonging.
A dash of nostalgia
“The stalls made Kozhikode beach stand out,” says Krishnaveni, a local resident who has been visiting the beach since childhood. “You could find everything there, from uppilitta manga (pickled raw mango slices) and ice orathi to kallummakkaya (steamed and fried mussels tossed in a spicy mix of masala), tea and kada mutta (quail eggs). The beach wasn’t just about the sea, it was about the people, the noise, and the food that pulled everyone together.”
She believes that the relocation changes more than the view. “South Beach has a special energy. People, including women and children, stay there late into the night, sometimes until three or four in the morning. The food stalls kept the place alive. Without them on the sand, it feels a little empty,” she says.
The new food street looks clean and organised. The Corporation has promised running water, electricity, and lighting. The stalls are designed like small boxes, placed in a neat row facing the road.
The newly built stalls by the Kozhikode corporation.
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Special arrangement
Some vendors have embraced the change. Jabir MP, whose father, Siddique, began selling snacks at the beach in 2008 now runs Fryzen, one of the new pavement stalls, offering fries, burgers, and varieties of chicken dishes. “I took a loan of about three to four lakh rupees to set this up,” he says. “Only a few stalls have opened so far because many have not yet received electricity or water.”
The new structures look neat but feel cramped. “Three people can’t stand together inside. For items that need cooking, like pazhampori (banana fritters) or bajji, there isn’t enough space,” he explains. “We can’t expand outside either, because it’s not allowed.”
Still, Jabir appreciates what has improved. “Waste management has become much better. Earlier, people used to throw away cups and waste on the sand, and we had to clean it up. Now, it’s easier to keep the area clean,” he says. “I have grown up on this shore. My father worked hard here, and I want to take it forward in my own way. The beach is not just a place of business for me, it is home. I will always have an emotional connection with this place,” he added.
The beach itself looks wider and calmer, its sands no longer crowded by carts or customers. The Corporation hopes this separation will create a better balance between leisure and hygiene.
Heartbeart lost
Still, for many, the beach now feels like it has lost a bit of its heartbeat. “It is surely a void, not seeing those shops on the beach…. But this is also for the better. Now we don’t have to worry about crabs crawling under our feet. Hope this change will create some new memories ” says Swetha Arun, a freelance designer.
However, weeks after the inauguration of the new food street, waste management has turned out to be a challenge. What was once handled informally by the vendors themselves has become more difficult in the compact pavement setting. With little space between the stalls, dustbins are now too close to the counters, and garbage often spills over onto the walkway.
Several shopkeepers say that while the Corporation’s initiative is a step in the right direction, the lack of space and civic responsibility from visitors are creating problems. “It’s not enough if the city alone develops,” says a vendor. “People also have to care about keeping it clean.”
A recent video circulating on social media shows waste scattered along the footpath and seating areas, drawing criticism from locals and visitors alike. Many complained that it has become difficult to stand near the stalls because of the litter.
According to the Corporation’s bylaw for the food street, vendors are not allowed to use disposable plastic plates, cups, or cutlery. Yet many continue to rely on them, citing a lack of affordable alternatives. The bylaw also mentions that a street manager and six cleaning staff are to be deployed to maintain the food street, but vendors say their presence has been inconsistent in the first week of operation.
Change is part of every city’s story. Kozhikode has always evolved with time, yet some places hold more than memories; they hold a city’s character. The new stalls promise order and cleanliness, but the blue carts scattered along the shore, glowing in the evening light with people gathered around sharing stories, will always belong to the old Calicut.
Published – November 14, 2025 04:32 pm IST